OK, I had a look. If anyone is interested (I know I am):

From General Hydroponics
Subculture is a revolutionary blend of microorganisms that will increase vitality and yield in all plants. Whether in soil or hydroponics, the proprietary mixed blend of bacteria, actinomycetes and trichoderma fungi colonize in the root zone and media to form a symbiotic relationship with the plant. Plant root mass will increase, as well as nutrient absorption, creating bigger, healthier plants.
GENERAL HYDROPONICS

Another similar explanation from a hydro store
SubCulture is a biological root inoculum that contains a wide diversity of microorganism species. Suitable for use in soil and hyroponic applications; SubCulture contains fungi which colonize roots and bacteria which form symbiotic relationships with plants. SubCulture can be used throughout the growing cycle and also contains plant extracts, amino acids, humates, vitamins and sugars to sustain a living community of beneficial organisms.
Coca's Central Valley Hydroponics, Inc. Online Shopping (scroll down a bit)

A couple 3 questions:
- Does anyone know exactly (or roughly) how much something like SubCulture could benefit an already thriving grow. I've always thought if it aint broke, don't fix it. However reading about it makes it sound like something that every grow should be taking advantage of. Maybe an increased yield by 1%? 5%?Any guesses? I don’t give a rat’s ass if my root balls’ size is worthy of respect and awards if it doesn’t do anything for my yield.
- They say it can be use throught the growing cycle, but should I stop using it during the last week or so while I am flushing?
- Though it can be used in hydroponics applications, is it chunky enough to plug up spray nozzles?

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It's a "dialed-in" thing- you won't see a big differance unless things are pretty well maximized. F'rinstance, ya won't see any increase in mass if there isn't available carbon to fix, etc.
However, it'll do a world of good in a stressed garden. Very good pre-emptive disease precaution.

GH won't tell ya this, but once you have those colonies in yer rhizosphere, they'll tend to self-perpetuate... You don't have to re-apply each change, though it's great if ya can.

Never known it to clog GH spray rails, which are pretty fine. If your worried, just toss a pump bag ( pump sock) over the pump.

I water with a culture when i transplant, i've yet to see a plant stressed after a transfer(this grow). I Think cultures are great for everyone, it makes the margin for error smaller.

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Mycorrhizae...I get the impression that it only needs to be added to the plant once, and then it is just chilling in there keeping itself alive until harvest. Is that true, or does it need to be administered from time to time on a schedule?

As far as I know the mycorrhiza is used to inoculate soil. Thats is the way we used it in the tree nursery. It was specific to the tree in that application.

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When in doubt, whip it out

Not exactly, as rhizome says on the 1st page, Have a look @ a GH product called " SubCulture".

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I think rhizome is suggesting you don't have to apply nearly as often as the directions call for. I think you would still have to do it ocassionally. What is ocassionally? Anyone, rhizome?

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From what I have known and learned here it is a one time application to be mixed into the soil. It will take care of itself after that. Dr. Bloor

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When in doubt, whip it out

That's what I figured. There is a powdered bag for sale at the local grow shop and the directions are for 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but it does not say how often to apply.

I guess I was thinking more about hydro, where you change your nutrients often. I imagine it would be much less often for soil.

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i just bought some mycorrhizal tablets
heres the explination on the box
give back to your garden what the forests and jungles have naturally
improves
-plant growth
-nutrient and water uptake
-fruit and vegetable yield
-flower and tree growth
-leaf size, color and density
reduces
-transplant shock
-drought stress
directions for use
-direct sowing, place tablet 1" from the seed/clone beneath the soil surface
-transplanting, place tablets at the bottom of the planting

guaranteed analysis 17-9-5
also contains mycorrhiza in calcined clay 45%
humic acid derived from leonardite(cdfa method)35%
ascophyllum nodosum(seaweed extract)20%

MYCORRHIZA APPROXIMATELY 10,000,050 VIABLE ORGANISMS PER GRAM

ECTO
pisolithus tinctorius-9,000,000 spores per gram
rhizopogon luteolus-250,000 spores per gram
rhizopogon fulvigleba-250,000 spores per gram
rhizopogon villosuli-250,000 spores per gram
rhizopogon amylopogon-250,000 spores per gram

ENDO
glomus intaradices-20 spores per gram
glomus clarum-5 spores per gram
glomus mosseae-5 spores per gram
glomus monosporus-5 spores per gram
glomus deserticola-5 spores per gram
glomus brasillianum-5 spores per gram
gigaspora margarita-5 spores per gram

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http://boards.cannabis.com/basic-gro...-dankness.html
complete guide to mothers clones and trimming roots http://www.cannabase.com/cl/index.html
these last 2 links have most grow books to read http://greenmanspage.com/guides/ growmoreweed.com

Heh- I thought the endo class was limited to glomus, non-inclusively.

OP- GH's logic in replacing culture w/ res change is that there are interactions between micro-organisms that can influence plant growth/health, beyond any primary affect each organism may have. You're resetting your population ratios w/ reapplication.

See incredibly long pdf file here I think that you'll need to click the manual download link.

On the flip side, endo populations in particular tend to perpetuate.

I couldn't speak for population ratios in the final product, but you can grow out Subculture at home- Room temp water (gassed out), 5% grow nute, a little bit of glucose ( or whatever ya got handy), toss in a pinch of Sub, leave it in the dark a couple days- It'll breed.

Yer on yer own for dosage.

Do not kick over- stinks pretty good.

I'm using Happy Frog for my big girls with awesome results, I'm even using it for my other plants, and they seem to be in heaven, the stuff is primo

also....in my plant physiology class we learned about mychorrhizal fungi (actually the one you guys are referring to is most likely Endomichorrhizae or Arbuscular michorrhizae, they are highly branched arbuscles within root cortical cells, and apparently neither the cell wall or the host's cell membrane is breached (when the fungus enters the root tips, and the nodule structure is formed transferring nutrients between the fungi and the root cortical cell) I think mainly the only thing the nodules do is provide an ''extra" nitrogen source that the plant stores in nodules in its roots...but I've never seen this in cannabis

I used to grow peas and beans (string beans) and always used an inocculant, specifically to fix nitrogen nodules to the roots. Was always afraid of fixing the nitrogen to the cannabis roots, (if indeed it would react the same way) because the nitrogen would still be there while trying to flower.

Is this the same kind/type of product?

I Know this thread has been dead for awhile, but i would like to pass on something i learned in class this week about mycorrhiza fungi. First off if your grow isnt 120% organic its just a waste of money to try and use the fungi. Any ferts that use salts will kill the fungi in a hurry. The fungi also can increase the surface area for the roots up 200%. But this is only really helpful if the roots arent already taking up all the space in the pots. Also the fungi have the ability to inorganic or inaccessable nutes, and convert them to the plant. Last but not least fungi breathe O2 and give off CO2. Kinda nifty I thought, and very symbotic. Sooooo in closing grow your plants in larger pots or outside with mycorrhiza, you will have to feed and water your plant alot less.

Heres a site that specialize in all sorts of fungi. Fungi Perfecti®: gourmet and medicinal mushrooms.
and paul Stamets on ted kewl shit Paul Stamets on 6 ways mushrooms can save the world | Video on TED.com

ps. i bought the potting soil and rooting meduim with the extra nitrigon fixing bacteria. It is amazing i had to cut my blood meal doage in half. I was already using half the recommend amount.

Viperman

Heres a basic explination of mycorrhizae. There are two basic types of mycorrhizae, ectotrophic and endotrophic... Ectotrophic only penetrate intercellular spaces while endotrophic penetrates cortical cells of the roots.

It releases certain chemicals that increase the availability of both inorganic and organic phosphorus, because plants with the fungi need less phosphate, fert applications can be reduced. It also widens the areas of new roots hairs or older "not much used roots". they improve plant health, which lower pest problems and reduce applications of various pesticides, increases uptake of water and nutrients and also protect roots from pathogens... increase water retention, and releases nutrients of organic matter by ensymic means, trapping nutrients, and in death provides organic matter.

These fungi are common in 97% of all plants in their native environment thus going out and digging up some of your forest soils will be enough to do the job. No need to go out and buy this stuff, unless your using ALL organic mix, which excludes perlite and vermaculite which are both minerals soils...

I am leaning twords the use of sand silt and clay soil with about 1/3 to 1/2 organics. Any suggestions?

i have been using cannas version "this shit aint cheap" after talking with my friend that owns the store basically the run down that i got is,it helps keep your root mass healthy by turning old dead root matter into a useful healthy environment.hmm i really dont know how to explain what he told me.seems effective though.