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drheton · #26 (**permalink**) Sep-04-2007, 15:45

No mention of the pre-harvest flush... I am very curious what your thoughts are. I started an utterly unsuccessful Mythbuster in basic growing about it; perhaps you could weigh in.

**stinkyattic** · #27 (**permalink**) Sep-06-2007, 09:57

I don't do a pre-harvest flush on my compost grown plants. Towards the end of bloom they are already starting to yellow a bit and that's enough for me; I just want to see evidence that they are in fact starving for Nitrogen immediately prior to harvest.

mercybeats · #28 (**permalink**) Sep-27-2007, 08:35

I would like to use your soil suggestions but I'm living in Asia and can't find a mix similar to the Agway "humus and manure." What I HAVE found is composted manure (composted with bark or something- I don't fully understand the language), humus, and organic soil with no added ferts. Care to take a stab at the ratio?

**stinkyattic** · #29 (**permalink**) Sep-27-2007, 08:43

You should have a very good mix there as long as it has been heated to kill pests and seeds, and the bark is not too acidic- you want to do a pH test before you grow with it, and mix in some lime if it is low, but the amount of perlite would be the same.

mercybeats · #30 (**permalink**) Sep-28-2007, 03:09

Thanks for the reply! But, I guess I wasn't totally clear- what I found was those three ingredients (composted manure, humus, and organic soil) separately- what ratio do you think I should mix those at to approximate the agway mix? (obviously the perlite will be the same)

**stinkyattic** · #31 (**permalink**) Sep-28-2007, 08:44

Ooh that one I'm not sure of.
I don't trust most sources of compost for indoor use simply because of the risk of pests and pest eggs coming in with them. Whatever you use, be certain that it has been processed to kill pests- ask at the garden shop.

**stinkyattic** · #32 (**permalink**) Oct-18-2007, 10:25

All right so I did a little search and discovered that finding that Agway compost west of the Mississippi is impossible. BUMMER!
I'll give you the specs on it so you can check your local farmer supply for a substitute:

-It's made of composted humus and composted manure.
-The fert numbers are 0.5-0.5-0.5.
-It is treated for pests and weed seeds, packaged, and bagged. I don't consider 'bulk' compost from outdoor bins a substitute!!! Get one that is GUARANTEED free of pests!
-It's pretty darn chunky and lumpy. This is a good thing.
-The pH comes in right around 6.8-6.9.

I don't know what you guys out west have for a chain farmer supply store. If someone has any experience with this, let me know. Image Reaper, you said there was a good compost source in NorCal? If you guys can help out I'll add more sources to this thread.
Composts under about $5/40# are preferable. Those seaweed ones are lovely and all but can be quite expensive.

Mrs. Greenjeans · #33 (**permalink**) Oct-18-2007, 10:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by stinkyattic

I don't do a pre-harvest flush on my compost grown plants. Towards the end of bloom they are already starting to yellow a bit and that's enough for me; I just want to see evidence that they are in fact starving for Nitrogen immediately prior to harvest.

I don't pre harvest flush anymore. First of all, I make sure my soil mix is rich enough that I really don't use much in the way of additional ferts or supplements that will build up in the plant. Second, it's a pain in the ass with my set up. I merely stop feeding them and give them only plain water or molasses water about 3 weeks before harvest. Then I let them dry and cure properly. No nitro/chemical taste. This last batch tastes like lemon. Yummy. I've gotten LOTS of compliments on the taste of my herb.

SMOKIN A WHILE · #34 (**permalink**) Nov-07-2007, 11:36

Stinky thanks for the paper towel alternative. I like the idea of putting the sprout in a good sized container that the lights won't dry out.

saltrock1. · #35 (**permalink**) Dec-04-2007, 20:13

Hey attic,
Quick question do you want to do the cloning at the begining of your light cycle when your light turns on or better to leave em in the dark for a couple of hours.

Thanks
SALT

**stinkyattic** · #36 (**permalink**) Dec-05-2007, 08:20

I keep my moms under 24h of light, saltrock. So I can't really answer that. I don't know how cloning at the start of the light cycle would affect end results.

I'm cleaning up this thread and moving all the posts pertaining to peoples' individual problems rather to a general technique question to new threads...

Markass · #37 (**permalink**) Feb-14-2008, 10:15

This could be useful as far as harvesting goes..

**stinkyattic** · #38 (**permalink**) Feb-14-2008, 10:19

Markass- yeah that's very helpful, thanks. We get that question a lot.

Clock- I moved your question to its own thread where I'm sure more veteran growers will see it.

**stinkyattic** · #39 (**permalink**) Mar-03-2008, 13:46

I saw in another thread there was a suggestion to add a note about soilless mixes, specifically ProMix, to this thread... Here ya go:

Quote:

Originally Posted by foxysox

I've been using ProMix BX lately and the trick to avoiding pH problems is this:

Promix is stabilized at the packaging plant by addition of lime, a pH buffer (CaCO3). The pH of peat, the major component, is naturally around 5ish. The lime keeps the pH up above 6 UNTIL IT IS USED UP. This occurs because when you add water, you are allowing a chemical reaction (neutralization of the acids in the peat by the lime) to take place. Over time, the amount of lime left will drop, and this neutralization stops taking place.

Your job as the soilless ProMix grower is to keep ahead of the pH!

Typically you will start to see problems after about 8 weeks of the plant being in the same pot. This is because the lime is used up and the peat is breaking down into a sludgy peaty acidic swampy mess. pH will plummet.

So how do you avoid this? Simple!

Pot up into a pot that is JUST big enough for your plants. Time your grow so you are potting up into the next size pot, with fresh ProMix, every 5-6 weeks so that new root growth is ALWAYS going into nice fresh soil.

Staying on schedule, you should rarely if ever have to flush to keep your mix at the desireable soilless range which is about 0.4 pH points below the range for soil.

Good luck.

KayaKing · #40 (**permalink**) Mar-04-2008, 13:33

WOW - thanks again Stinky Attic, some serious knowledge dropping!
Awesome Post, keep 'em coming!

jackforest · #41 (**permalink**) Mar-05-2008, 20:38

well, I'm somewhat new to the forum but am now an addicted daily user. Of course, Ive grown on to the understanding you are the guru around these parts. It was very easy to build a respect for you with all of your knowledge to share. However, I just had to note this. You never fail to be clear, concise, and thorough. Yet, I have no clue where this came from and It gave me quite the chuckle

"...as are the nursery 6-packs that fucking petunias come in"

good show buddy haha

**stinkyattic** · #42 (**permalink**) Mar-06-2008, 08:43

That is a rare and highly sought-after variety of petunia that grows wild in Cancun, Ft. Lauderdale, and a few other spring break destinations. It is the first plant that has been actually documented mimicking human behaviour...