Simple nOOb instructions for growin' da dankness - Page 2 - Cannabis Forums Message Boards - Medical Marijuana, Cannabis Club, Dispensary, News

Markass · #26 (**permalink**) Feb-14-2008, 11:15

This could be useful as far as harvesting goes..

**stinkyattic** · #27 (**permalink**) Feb-14-2008, 11:19

Markass- yeah that's very helpful, thanks. We get that question a lot.

Clock- I moved your question to its own thread where I'm sure more veteran growers will see it.

KayaKing · #28 (**permalink**) Mar-04-2008, 14:33

WOW - thanks again Stinky Attic, some serious knowledge dropping!
Awesome Post, keep 'em coming!

jackforest · #29 (**permalink**) Mar-05-2008, 21:38

well, I'm somewhat new to the forum but am now an addicted daily user. Of course, Ive grown on to the understanding you are the guru around these parts. It was very easy to build a respect for you with all of your knowledge to share. However, I just had to note this. You never fail to be clear, concise, and thorough. Yet, I have no clue where this came from and It gave me quite the chuckle

"...as are the nursery 6-packs that fucking petunias come in"

good show buddy haha

**stinkyattic** · #30 (**permalink**) Mar-06-2008, 09:43

That is a rare and highly sought-after variety of petunia that grows wild in Cancun, Ft. Lauderdale, and a few other spring break destinations. It is the first plant that has been actually documented mimicking human behaviour...

jangel · #31 (**permalink**) Mar-13-2008, 09:28

STINKY ATTIC

"...as are the nursery 6-packs that fucking petunias come in" ".......It is the first plant that has been actually documented mimicking human behaviour..."
......film at 11....DO YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR STUDENT IS DOING??

LOL!!! You crack me up...

This is a great resource Stinky. Just what I have been looking for. I have cut and pasted it into hard copy for a shopping list. I cannot find a resource for getting the ferts you mention here in Canada. I CAN find the Fox Farm line and was thinking of trying a kit, which they have a selection of. What do you recommend as far as a good complimentary feeding schedule to take the babies right through flower? I have read in some of your threads you like this line. Right now I am using organics but want a complete system that works together. Thanks for your time, and may I say your work is exemplery. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!

**stinkyattic** · #32 (**permalink**) Mar-13-2008, 09:41

Thank YOU!
Wow that must have been an OLD thread lol! I haven't used that FF in quite a while!
I actually haven't done a full formal grow with FoxFarm as it is intended to be used, but they should have a feeding schedule posted somewhere. I have one in hard copy that a friend who grows with it printed for me, but seem to have filed it somewhere. He is pulling EXCELLENT numbers with the stuff and his product is very tasty, so who can complain?

You should be able to get other types of complete systems in Canada too- check out Canna, Advanced Nutrients, and Botanicare as 3 other companies that have nice complete 'systems'.

jangel · #33 (**permalink**) Mar-13-2008, 12:48

Thank you muchly. So what I gather, being a n00b is that any program recommended for flowering plants is benificial for pot as long as the ph is correct?

I mean, being a novice in this regard, the companies are NOT going to say "hey, buy this to grow great dank!" Thanks stinkster!
life,
J-angel

**stinkyattic** · #34 (**permalink**) Mar-13-2008, 12:51

I think that one of the major pot-fert manufacturers has a schedule posted for commercial melon production, lol.

It's usually pretty obvious which products were developed with cannabis growers in mind- go for those over a general purpose house or garden plant food and yes, keep your pH correct for your method.

I'm probably going to go back and clean up this thread soon as it's meant to be a tutorial rather than a discussion.

jangel · #35 (**permalink**) Mar-13-2008, 14:10

NP. Thanks for your time. I know ferts are one place a n00b gets lost, I know I do.
Life,
j-angel

b0n3ZA · #36 (**permalink**) Mar-16-2008, 14:29

Excellent thread stinky. Your advice on cloning will be put to good use soon

I just have a question... Can I clone a plant that is currently in flower (5 weeks, outdoor) ?

andoweed · #37 (**permalink**) Mar-17-2008, 18:43

Thanks for all the info stinky. I will be using your guide as a bible for my next grow.

Do you know what type of manure is used in the Agway brand? I found "Garden Pro 0.5-0.5-0.5 Composted Manure and Humus" at Lowe's for $1.98 per 40lb bag. The ingredients are listed as "Natural soil products and composted poultry manure." I read on another site that the nutrients in poultry manure are "hot" and quick release as opposed to the nutrients in cow manure which are "cold" and slow release. I just want to make sure that the soil I make is as close to your recommendation as possible.

**stinkyattic** · #38 (**permalink**) Mar-17-2008, 19:07

Boneza- Yes, but it's very difficult since you will have to be EXTRA careful of mold and the plant ALSO has to reveg- you may see lower survival rates and plants that don't do much besides just sit there for the first month or 2. Don't take cuttings high on the plant, as this is stressful to the flowering mother and may reduce yield or cause herms. I usually say week 2 is the last time in flower that it's even worthwhile to try to take a cutting.

Andoweed- I BELIEVE it's cow manure but I'm not 100% certain. The NPK on the bag is actually the same as what you found, and since you should be using seedling mix for plants less than 3-4 weeks old anyway, I think you should be okay. Just keep an eye out for tip burn, and start your fertilizer weaker than recommended and work up. I highly recommend reading the 'continuous canopy' sticky in Basic as well for more hints about your soil environment.
Good luck!

Hawaiian Bud · #39 (**permalink**) Mar-19-2008, 11:57

stinkyattic, I'm curious. Is all your growing limited to inside? I live in Puna District of the Big Island. For me I wouldn't consider even growing inside. One, because of the semi perfect weather I have here. Two, I live in an area with the highest electrical rates in America. My monthly electrical bill is anywhere in the neighborhood of $230. 00 a month to $400.00 for a family of four! Can you imagine the bill if I had grow lights going too?

Besides, I have heard to many stories of people getting busted because their electrical bill jumped up so high because of "grow lights", and then elecric company turns client over to DEA

I was wondering if you guys get 'Leaf Miners' hwere you're at on your plants at all? If you do what remedy do you have for these buggars?

mahalo

Hawaiian Bud

**stinkyattic** · #40 (**permalink**) Mar-19-2008, 12:08

Hello Hawaiian Bud- Aloha!

My cannabis growing IS limited to indoors because the idea of growing outside gimme da jibblies! I am really a bit paranoid about bopping around the woods with fertilizer and plants, especially in an area where it seems everyone else is doing the same thing- I'm as afraid of meeting up with the thieves taking my crop in the middle of the woods in the dim hours of early morning as I am of the cops. At least the cops just toss ya in jail...

I'll be running some outdoor plants this year seriously for the first time, and plan to keep it at a very modest scale. We shall see.

But I grow other plants outside, and we have leaf miners here in New England too. They are a different genus I think but do similar damage. I have problems with the little shits munching my gladiolus leaves every time I try to grow them. Try treating your plants with a light mist of neem oil, re-applied after a rainstorm, and stopping use about 3 weeks from harvest. Try to get as little as possible on the buds, even when they are very small. The smell is wretched.

If you pay your bill on time, the electrical provider would rather have your increased business than turn you over to the DEA. Of course, be conservative, and only allow yourself 1000 extra watts per bedroom that your home or apartment is taxed at, and try to keep other appliances turned off when not in use. Don't allow any obvious plant light leaks to be visible from outside your home.

hatch · #41 (**permalink**) Mar-20-2008, 02:57

Stinky,HYWHT'SUP??!!

This TRICH is for you

**stinkyattic** · #42 (**permalink**) Mar-24-2008, 11:15

All right! Hatch, one of our resident Southern Gentlemen, comin' through with da macros!!!
I'm going to use these above pics ^^^ to illustrate the ripeness test.
You guys can DEFINITELY see the trichomes in the last picture. Look at how each one is like a perfect droplet of dew on a little glass stem. When your plants are ready to harvest, the clear appearance they have in that picture goes away and first gets CLOUDY or MILKY, and then some of them will turn AMBER. When all are milky and some are amber (10% or more depending upon how much you want to be stuck to the sofa), you can chop.
The pic #2 shows the pistils, or HAIRS, that start turning brown well before harvest.

heveysmoker · #43 (**permalink**) Mar-26-2008, 03:15

hey hows it going? i was reading you forums and seen the part about seeding in soil i was just wondering if you knew of any ways to tell if your plants are male or female while still in a vegg state. (for mothers) any info would help thanks

SnSstealth · #44 (**permalink**) Mar-26-2008, 09:32

heavy...you may start to get some pre flowers a week or two before onset...but its hard to tell the differance at that stage.....
hawaii....LEDs draw VERY little power

whiskeytango

kraloth · #45 (**permalink**) May-06-2008, 08:46

hey stinky umm im just starting my first grow only grow 4 plants after sexing (unless i dont get that many females) at the moment i am planning on having a grow box about 4ft by 3 ft by 5 ft tall using a 600 hps maby 800 what do you think?

also umm what kind of a yield could i expect off this kinda setup i only realy need to tide me and my friend over

any help would be massivly appreciated cheers

bbblue · #46 (**permalink**) May-06-2008, 20:25

My oh my, this seems like a lot for a beginner trying to grow with parents that would not want it. Good guide for when I get older though. I'll have to improvise until then...

Mississippi Steve · #47 (**permalink**) May-23-2008, 08:48

So....now the questions is... what is the average time between clear, cloudy, amber, and.... ??

**stinkyattic** · #48 (**permalink**) May-23-2008, 14:59

Good question, Steve!
I would say that about two weeks elapse bewteen when I start seeing the first color change to when I like to harvest. It will depend on a few factors though, so give yourself a window when you will be able to check on the plants' progress every day or 2 approaching your anticipated harvest time.

Raftastic · #49 (**permalink**) May-26-2008, 12:28

Stinky i have a simple question that's sooo simple i have no idea how to find the bloody answer...

I put my plants onto 12/12 2 days ago,they were eating CHEMPAK No2 HNF 25+15+15 and they thrived but now (after hours of searching) i'd like to know what you'd advise me to move them onto for the Flowering stage...I was thinking of using the CHEMPAK No4 which is 15+15+30 and realy after all this waffling would like to hear what you'd use..Edit:Use as in ?+?+? (Is is called the NPK table ? Nitrogen/Phosphate/Potash)

Thanks in advance..

**stinkyattic** · #50 (**permalink**) May-26-2008, 19:05

Okay. The VEG fert has a lot of N, the first number, because plants growing lots of shoots and leaves need plenty of Nitrogen compared to other components. They still need Phosphorous (P, second number) for healthy roots and Potassium (K, last number) for a strong immune system.
When you switch to flower, you want to suppress the plant's ability to make lots of leaves and chlorophyll, and so you cut the N number down by at least half. If you start with a veg fert that has N=10, go to a flower fert with N=5 or less. Then give them extra P and K, whcih they need for sexual reproduction.
Your proposed bloom fert would have a little too much N, proportionally, and not enough P. Is there another one available with a higher MIDDLE number?

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