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Raftastic · #51 (**permalink**) May-26-2008, 19:40

No it looks like that's got the best low to high ratio out of them all,it's driving me nuts trying to find the right one,it's not like i can walk into the garden center and ask the dude,which i did infact do to get the Number 2 & that wasn't pretty he looked at me like i was from outa space and didnt have a bloody clue,i only managed to get it because i spotted it on my way out
(all after half an hour of him shaking his head and showing me every bloody fert but the one i wanted and bought)

Raftastic · #52 (**permalink**) May-26-2008, 19:45

I've found something but again have no idea how to use it..
EDIT: i know how to use it,it's just in a smaller pot...(it's been a long smokey night)

It's the Chempak Bonsia Tree Fertilizer -- 10-30-30

Chempak Bonsai Tree Fertiliser 100g [CHEMPBON12] at www.CapitalGardens.co.uk

I think i've found what i need but would still like to know your opinion (sorry but i guess this is what happens when you're the sites go2guy/gal)

Thanks for your time...

Raftastic · #53 (**permalink**) May-26-2008, 19:59

Sorry folks one more post and i will sleep happy...

Stinky i've found another Chempak No8 it's 12.5-25-25,so depending on your advice i'll give the Bonsai or Number 8 a go...

**stinkyattic** · #54 (**permalink**) May-26-2008, 20:05

I think No. 8 for the win, but make sure that it's intended for soil if you grow soil, or hydro if you grow hydro- they are NOT interchangeable without checking and usually adjusting the pH because of the target buffering ranges in quality fertilizers.

Raftastic · #55 (**permalink**) May-26-2008, 20:30

Thankyou for your time Stinks,now i have my ferts down i am a very happy man,for those in the UK Chempak is easy to find and 800g makes over 2000litres of food at a cost of £3.50/£4.40...

I'm open to other fert ideas that i can get hold of in the uk..

fishens · #56 (**permalink**) May-29-2008, 22:32

I found this a couple of pages back so i am moving it up. Excellent info Stinky...My hat is off to you, as always THANK YOU!!!

fishens · #57 (**permalink**) May-29-2008, 22:42

O.K. this is a stoner moment. I had done a search for clones and this post by Stinky came up a couple of pages into it. of course didn't realize it was a sticky somewhere else. But the Thanks still stands Stinky.

illnillinois · #58 (**permalink**) Jun-01-2008, 09:59

Whats a good distance to keep the lights from the plants??

**stinkyattic** · #59 (**permalink**) Jun-02-2008, 08:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by illnillinois

Whats a good distance to keep the lights from the plants??

1-4" for tube flouros- within that range, the T12s should be CLOSEST and the T5s you can have a little further if you have a bank of a couple of them or more.

CFLs should be as close as possible without seeing signs of heat stress or physical burns on the leaves.

HIDs depend on the type of hood and the bulb size. You will get closer with a smaller bulb, an air-cooled hood, a cooltube, and by addition of a light mover. With a larger bulb, a standard reflector, or a fixed light position you will have to stay further.

Get as close as you can before you see leaf edge curl, then raise the lights until it stops.

Raftastic · #60 (**permalink**) Jun-04-2008, 13:19

Stinky,what are the advantages (+) of keeping your plants on a 24/0 as oppose to a 18/6 ?

In my mind it's to do with keeping the plants smaller (height) but does it effect the bushyness & end product ?

Also would i keep them on 24/0 right up until flowering & then do you put them straight onto a 12/12 ? I only ask because i usualy go for 18/6 then 12/12,but after reading that you use 24/0 my brain is telling me to evolve and play follow my leader...

p.s. Those nutes i bought are the dogs bollocks,alomst as good as this thread as it stops the uneducated amongst us from having to start new threads for what some would call newbie topics.

**stinkyattic** · #61 (**permalink**) Jun-04-2008, 13:27

Okay that's a good question. I've answered it elsewhere, but it should be included in this thread. IT depends partially on personal preference and grow style, but my reasons are:
-Very easy to stabilize temps when heat from your lights is not a variable over time
-I can visit them at any time, day or night, without fear of stress
-No timers to buy or have fail on ya
-Going from 24/0 to 12/12 is a big heads up to the plant FLOWER NOW! as it is the first time it has ever seen darnkess. That's why I go directly, with no intermediate step.
Also, a slick trick for the outdoor crowd is to keep plants on 24/0 until August 1 and then put them outside. They will begin to flower immediately seeing darkness for the first time, and finish before frost.

Raftastic · #62 (**permalink**) Jun-04-2008, 13:40

Thanks but i have 1 more.

Does 24/0 effect the growth & if so how (what should i expect) ?

I weill take advantage of the sunlight during the daytime and revert to the lights after T

**stinkyattic** · #63 (**permalink**) Jun-04-2008, 13:54

I haven't noticed a difference personally. Many growers will tell you that they give some darkness to enhance root growth. As a variable, there are more important ones, though, so you should use whichever is convenient for you.

Raftastic · #64 (**permalink**) Jun-11-2008, 20:15

I only ask because i was told that 24/0 would lead to the stems being less bulky and stretching & the whole reason for me using 24/0 was to try and grow shorter plants with more bulk.

Was i told wrong & also is my thinking bollocks (wrong) if my take on it is wrong then i'll revert back to 18/6 so long as it wont harm them (they're only week old seedlings)

**stinkyattic** · #65 (**permalink**) Jun-13-2008, 15:25

That may be true; I don't know actually. With the seedlings you have going already, I would at least keep them under whatever light schedule you are already on until they become sexually mature, since changes are a source of potential stress.
If you plan to continue working with the same strain, it might be worth doing a side-by-side comparison with a few identical clones off the same mom, half on 24-0 and half on 18-6, to see how each group reacts, and take the result that you believe to be better and run like that in the future.

Diplomat · #66 (**permalink**) Jun-20-2008, 00:37

quick question if I may, so please if anyone knows the answer be my guest...

After placing germinated seeds in small containers to sprout, do you immediately have light beaming on the soil surface? Or are you supposed to wait until they sprout and rather put them in a dark - warm place until they pop, then turn the lights on? I have heard both ways, which one correct?

Also is suran wrap on top a good idea in the pre-sprouting phase?

Thx

Raftastic · #67 (**permalink**) Jun-20-2008, 01:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diplomat

quick question if I may, so please if anyone knows the answer be my guest...

After placing germinated seeds in small containers to sprout, do you immediately have light beaming on the soil surface? Or are you supposed to wait until they sprout and rather put them in a dark - warm place until they pop, then turn the lights on? I have heard both ways, which one correct?

Also is suran wrap on top a good idea in the pre-sprouting phase?

Thx

Edit: Totaly read your post wrong,you put them straight under the lights mate,if you have small pots you should take advantage of the Sun and stick them on your window ledge.

Diplomat · #68 (**permalink**) Jun-20-2008, 09:47

Thanks for the reply, I now have them under sunlight so i'm hoping that should do the trick. Seems I have been struggling just to get the damn things to sprout, this is now my second batch after a first failed attempt. I'm also beginning to think im planting them to deep(1 inch)... just another thought.

How about that suran wrap? Good to cover the pots with or no?

Also: Would MG Potting Soil be too strong for a young seedling? That's what i'm using ( couldn't find starter soul )

Thanks for the input!

**stinkyattic** · #69 (**permalink**) Jun-20-2008, 09:51

Seeds do not need any light until they break the soil surface.
Direct sun will dry out the soil faster, and if you don't keep on top of it, can potentially dry out the vulnerable sprout.
Saran wrap is not a good idea. You need air flow over the soil surface, or you will get fungus.

Mr.GoodMorning02 · #70 (**permalink**) Jun-20-2008, 12:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by stinkyattic

Seeds do not need any light until they break the soil surface.
Direct sun will dry out the soil faster, and if you don't keep on top of it, can potentially dry out the vulnerable sprout.

I had a nice seedling that i put into a shady area but after the heat wave came through even with wet soil and watering after the 94 degree day, the lil guy burnt up without a fight. learned my lesson

Raftastic · #71 (**permalink**) Jun-20-2008, 15:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.GoodMorning02

I had a nice seedling that i put into a shady area but after the heat wave came through even with wet soil and watering after the 94 degree day, the lil guy burnt up without a fight. learned my lesson

Yeah well 94d's in England this time of year just aint gonna happen

i never put my seedling outside i just stick them on the window ledge.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diplomat

Thanks for the reply, I now have them under sunlight so i'm hoping that should do the trick. Seems I have been struggling just to get the damn things to sprout, this is now my second batch after a first failed attempt. I'm also beginning to think im planting them to deep(1 inch)... just another thought.

How about that suran wrap? Good to cover the pots with or no?

Also: Would MG Potting Soil be too strong for a young seedling? That's what i'm using ( couldn't find starter soul )

Thanks for the input!

That's too deep mate,go back the the start of the thread and look for Stinkys post on seedlings,everything you need to know to get started is in this thread & Stinky is always forthcoming answering any queries you have...

1/8th of and inch is as deep as they need.

hudson88 · #72 (**permalink**) Jun-30-2008, 07:49

Hey stinky hope all is good,

I've got a question, I'm using bio bizz grow and bloom. i upped the nutes throughout flowering to a max of 3ml grow and 8ml bloom per litre at around 5 weeks. I'm just entering the 8th week of flowering and i'm feeding 1ml grow and 5ml bloom. I was intending to drop to around 1ml grow and 3ml bloom then do a flush for a couple of days. Does the backing off of my nutes sound ok or should i be lowering the bloom more or eliminating grow sooner etc? Have you got any tips or advice for feeding?

Thanks!

**stinkyattic** · #73 (**permalink**) Jun-30-2008, 10:44

Hey Hudson,
I think in a situation like you are in, even if you decide to run some 'grow' into flower (using a 3-part nute for example), a week before you flush, you should stop using it altogether anyway. I would not use even a low level of 'grow' nute within 2 weeks of harvest, but you can keep giving 'bloom' at full strength right until the flush starts. You should be able to see the leaves getting paler and slightly yellower after a few days of heavy flushing. That is desirable.

hudson88 · #74 (**permalink**) Jun-30-2008, 10:58

Cool, i was thinking along those lines but would of probably kept a low dose of grow till the flush, i'll stop it right away tho, pretty sure i'm no more than 2 weeks from harvest.

I've been reading too many grow logs and getting some conflicting advice on the subject so needed some clarification from the master!

Thanks stinky, much appreciated

Blaze87 · #75 (**permalink**) Jul-02-2008, 15:00

so i read your guide and i find it VERY useful. one thing i have a concern about though is i planted a stress seed and a kush seed. the stress plant is about 3 inches tall in a pot 7 inches tall and 7 1/2 inches wide. i know now that because of this the plant is concentrating on growing its roots instead of its leaves. my question is, can i transplant it to a smaller plant or just let it grow there? the stem is pretty thin but the leaves look healthy now that its been growing for 3 weeks. (just fyi) my kush plant is about an inch and a half tall after about a week in a pot 6 inches tall and 7 1/2 wide

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