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Old Apr-24-2009, 18:17
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Thumbs up Log-3-15 2 seed indoor grow..FIRST

Here she(s) is. Just some pics to start this off
If i can figure out how to post em...

Last edited by dmahny88; Apr-24-2009 at 18:24.
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Old Apr-24-2009, 18:35
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Old Apr-24-2009, 19:07
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Thumbs up

So my main worry about this set-up is the amount of light going to my plants. A little about the setup:
2'x4'x8' closet space
2 seeds from bagweed
potted both in a 2 or so gallon pot with MG potting soil moisture control(yeah, i know...)
Lighting:
40W desk lamp; some sort of halide??(from closeup pic above if you can see it sorta well)
a 10000K/15W florescent 14" bulb for aquarium; basically like a day-glow spectrum i think
and some other light that is 15W for an aquarium as well.

Nutes:
adding molasses once every week or so starting yesterday
no other nutes at the time, trying to keep it simple and cheap

pH
runoff:?
tap:?
hardness:7.7dkm/2.74alk in meq/L
I can test Calcium to..would this be useful? What is a fair alkalinity for the runoff/tap water? Do i need pH tests?

Vent:
1 or 2(haven't added the second yet) small, powerful, computer cooling fans
Low humidity, this is a grow in southern cali close to beach and has good average temps but can get fairly dry later. Plant is moisted with spray bottle 2 or 3 times daily.

Thats basically it. Let them take their own course probably without using nutes. I am trying to keep this ACAP
As CHEAP AS POSSIBLE
While learning as much as possible so SIMPLE is the plan
I don't have to many questions so far although i wish my plant were bigger 5 weeks in, its the lighting i assume, will this just make it a slower grow? Can i still produce a descent quantity with this lighting set up?
As you can see they had a little bit of suffering which happened before i transplanted them to MG soil. The soil i had before was WAY worse and the little girls seem to be starting to take to the new soil. Lights were also moved back down closer to the plants. During the first 2-3 weeks of growth they were ALL about stem growth, possibly a nutrient/lighting problem...
This has been slowed to a stop as well as al other growth when they were dying in the old soil up to know where they are starting to acclimate and root themselves into their new medium. Will they start shooting up and out soon? What should i expect on this and if you're still reading this question, no, you don't have to answer all these questions.
Im total nwb so just putting all my thoughts out there. I will make sure to throw on pics of the *girls*(i hope) as they grow so come back take a look, comment and hey if you feel like it you can answer some of these question^^^
All right thats all i can think of.
Sup wit it?
Peace
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Old Apr-25-2009, 17:10
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That flouro tube might be of use if you had it something like 2-3 inches from the tops of the plants. Go get a couple packs of 6500k CFL's from walmart along with a few 'Y' connectors.



Simple nOOb instructions for growin' da dankness
Answers about CFL, HPS, How Much Light...
Noob's guide to growroom set-up : a work in progress

besafe

one of my bagseed plants under 2 four foot flouro's at 23 days
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Old Apr-25-2009, 20:12
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BeFree's right, that flouro is way too far away to do any good, plus it's not
a spectrum that'll be of much use at 10000K.

get your local phone book out and look for 'discount builder's supply' or something
like that. when you go, look for vanity light fixtures, i'll post a couple of pics
of one of mine (i bought 4 of them because they were only $4.88 each).

once you have the fixture you'll want to get y-splitters to double the number
of bulbs and those cost between $1.00 and $2.00 each depending on where
you live and where you get them.

like i said, mine cost me $4.88 for the fixture and about $1.50 for the splitters
so lets say $2.00, that makes the total only $13.00 for the fixture.

then, when you go to buy bulbs, you can find the 23wtts and the 26wtts in
3 packs and 4 packs for around $6.00 and you can add them as you need
them and as you can afford them, plus, you can really customize your light
spectra.

hey little brother, i applaud your enthusiasm, but you need to do more research.
if you do, you'll learn a lot faster and you'll ask better questions which will
earn you some respect for being willing to educate yourself to some degree.
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Old Apr-25-2009, 20:14
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wow yeah, you need to get lighting under control... they are stretched ALOT and as you mentioned already are very small for being 5 weeks old..


another problem you are going to have is having 2 plants in the same pot.. the roots will get tangled and they will compete with each other for nutrients and one will have stunted growth and possibly die.

if you are going to grow with floros or CFLs, they need to be like 2-3 inches away from the plants... and the more lights the better
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Old Apr-25-2009, 20:19
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do you even know why you are feeding it molasses?

and do what they ^^^^ said!


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Old Apr-26-2009, 12:03
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dmahny88 - I agree with a lot of what has been said above; the primary point you should take is to read and learn as much as you can. Go back through some of the older indoor grow logs on here, and you'll probably learn a great deal. It being your first grow, you are a dry sponge waiting to absorb all that this great forum has to offer, and it has much to offer. Seldom do you get to learn from people who have actual experience - take advantage of it.

Don't get disheartened - you'll encounter problems along the way, and you'll learn from them. Every one of the growers on this board had a first grow - some were successful, others not. But, we normally learn more from failure than from success - it sticks in our minds better (at least in mine).

Glad to see you on here. Get yourself some CFLs as suggested by bozo above - that dude set forth a very good set up for you. And, study up on the nutes - from what I gather about molasses, it's used toward the end of flowering to provide the plant more energy through sugar to metabolize into bud growth/increased flowering, so you don't need it at this early stage. Your main concentration during veg should be on Nitrogen; however, always mix your nutes around 1/4 to 1/2 strength at first so you don't shock the heck out of your plants; normally water with nutes every other watering. Since you have MG soil - be very careful with adding nutes, if you add them at all since MG soil already has many added nutes. Again, the key is not to over nute. Agree with syde too in that your plants need to be in separate pots.

Keep your chin up, and learn as much as you can. Mostly though - enjoy your grow, my friend! Growing weed is an awesome and rewarding hobby. I get much fulfillment from growing, and I hope you will too.
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Old Apr-27-2009, 07:11
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Original Post-ish(condensed)
So my main worry about this set-up is the amount of light going to my plants. A little about the setup:
2'x21/2'x8' closet space
2 seeds from bagweed
potted both in a 2 or so gallon pot with MG potting soil-moisture control
Lighting:
40W g9 halogen bulb
a 10000K/15W florescent 18" florescent

Nutes:
none

Vent:
1 3x3 inch cooling fan exhausting the room
1 other 3x3 inch comp fan running inside room creating more circulation

Thats basically it. Let them take their own course probably without using nutes. I am trying to keep this ACAP
As CHEAP AS POSSIBLE
While learning as much as possible so SIMPLE is the plan
I don't have to many questions so far although i wish my plant were bigger 5 weeks in, its the lighting i assume.
As you can see they had a little bit of suffering which happened before i transplanted them to MG soil. The soil i had before was WAY worse but the little things seem to be starting to take to the new soil. Lights were also moved back down closer to the plants as they were before the pics. During the first 2-3 weeks of growth they were ALL about stem growth, possibly a nutrient/lighting problem...
Im total nwb so just putting all my thoughts out there. I will make sure to throw on pics of the *girls*(i hope) as they grow so come back take a look, comment and hey if you feel like it you can answer some questions^^^
All right thats all i can think of.
Sup wit it?
Peace

THE NEW PLAN--B

So we are a little more prepared this time. Finally grubbed the sack and pulled some bills out to do some this up right . Right'n'cheap of course. Only a few changes I made I will describe for you.
Oh and I think I made that orig post make myself sound, i believe, a lot less knowledgeable sounding than I really am. Its really very hard to put any of the theory and words that I have heard and read to action when setting up my own grow when all I am trying to do is simple simple simple; plant a seed in a basic soil, and OBSERVE, nothing more. I don't need this one to be a success as long as I am getting some learning from it which is why I have not reached with my pockets for anything "optional" stuff for this first grow and probably will go about it this way again until I get a better grasp on how these plants like it so I can see how these additional methods(nutes etc) will "improve" or affect my grow.
NUFF SAID
So simple being the key it was still crucial that i did something with the lighting. This was the real achilles heal in my set-up.

PLAN B-This time not using absolutely---WHATEVER I could find around aka lighting, so..

For now I have both plants in a 2 gallons of soil, same pot. They have been in there for 2 weeks now; MG soil, no ferts. I have used the 2'x21/2' space and placed 2 26W/1600 lumens@6500K CFL's in as well as the supplemental 15W 18" florescent light and 40W g9 Halogen bulb. I know this will not/is not enough light for now but money is tight and the grow future is uncertain as with only 2 seeds I am not sure if I have females or not.
Both seedlings are at 6 weeks now, today they are both at equal heights around a foot tall with very little leafage. Hopefully, now, with these veg-CFLs it'll do the trick and boom these plants so we can find out the sexes we got from these 2 seeds. Ill be taking special note to what I saw in the changes I have made thus far since this be my FIRST ever log/grow with a plant that has already given me a lot of learning. A little bit of my bg is in doing coral reef tanks so i guess my thumb has been a bit blue until now, its time to make it a bit green, yes? Im excited to MESS UP and LEARN and LEARN to MESS UP and hope that down the road I will have found pleasure and learned something useful, and cool as long as I get some satisfaction out of it as we all try and do.
So until now, I will be growing the plants both in the same pot until I get the vibe that they are growing their roots into each other then I will transplant one into a second bucket. Updates to come in the future, hold on tight! Are you with me?
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Old Apr-27-2009, 08:07
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dmahny88, glad to see you back and willing to keep on truckin'. As your first grow will be a learning experience, so will your 100th. The day we stop learnin' is the day we die - then, we just go on learnin' somewhere else.

Just to give you an idea based upon my experience, I have a set of plants that are around 30 days veg, a week or so behind yours. I just transplanted them into larger pots, as they had been in plastic Silo cups with drain holes punched in the bottom. I had transplanted them into the Silo cups only 2 weeks prior. With the background out of the way, after only 2 weeks the roots were seeking to grow out of the drain holes; and, upon transplant virtually no soil collapsed from the roots - meaning the roots had expanded to fill the entire cup.

I illustrate the root expansion to show you that your plants' roots most likely have already become entangled. I've read where some growers have had success with plants in a shared medium; however, it is much easier dealing with separate plants, as 1 may require more nutes, whereas the other may require much less. Also, should your plants outgrow their current 1 gal pot, then root separation at that point may be nearly impossible.

I wish you much luck in your continued grow. Continue to soak up the knowledge and building your experience. Good luck!
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Old Apr-27-2009, 08:24
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and get rid of that halogen light, it's not adding anything to your grow except heat.

when you have more money, buy more cfl's.
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"Some of my finest hours have been spent on my back veranda smoking hemp and observing as far as my eye could see."---Thomas Jefferson- 1781
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Old Apr-27-2009, 10:43
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haha... i was going to say EXACTLY what jakezking and justanotherbozo just said...

- if the roots aren;t tangled already, if you wait until the plants are appearing to be root bound or that they are fighting... it will be far far far too late to seperate them - more than likely you will cause some severe root damage trying to untangle them... many of the roots can very very thin like the hair on your head - but not nearly as strong as your hair and can be damaged quite easily.


- the halogen is probably doing absolutly nothing for you.. i;m not sure about the specs on the bulb you are using, but everything i've read seems to point to halogens being useless for growing

also the floro you are using 10k colour temp? i;m not certain thats doing anything either, i;m not sure cannabis can make use of anything in that colour spectrum, may want to consider swapping the bulb out for a T5 bulb if you can find it... though i;m not sure if T5s come in 18".. if i recall... T5s tend to come in non-standard sizes.


I think you'll find the CFLs you've added though should make a fairly dramatic difference... its still not very much light with just 2 of them, but it is MILES ahead of what you had before.

make sure you keep the CFL bulbs roughly 2 inchs away from the top of the plant - probably no more than say 4" and no less than 1" once you go past 4" you are going to have alot of wasted light due to the way CFLs emit their light, and once you are closer than 1" you start running the risk of scorching the leafs.

you can also make some home-made reflectors for your CFLs that you might find will help alot - checkout this article, it has some great info in it - Text

good luck!
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Old Apr-28-2009, 04:52
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stoked on putting this log together, questions answered.

First, thank you to all who stopped in and those who have given advise. Very much appreciated.
So we have AGAIN changed the lighting as of now we have 4 26W GE CFLs day/blue lights and a little 15W florescent T6 tube that has been changed from the 11000K to a different tube that seems to be putting the bulk of its energy to the 600-615nm range from looking at it's spectrum chart; no other specs on that.
All the walls have also been lined with matte white/black panda sheeting as well as installing those cool, but painstaking little soda can reflectors that were suggested by syde, all very helpful stuff from everyone. This method of installing individual CFLs is very useful if anyone who is trying to do CFL grow on a bulb come, bulb serve basis if you catch my drift Although i do see this method a a problem when the lights are being hung as it can get crowded and clumsy looking; but cheap reflectors - bottom line no doubt
In the ventilation department I have 2 fans that run at 35 CFM. Should I use the top or bottom as my vent opening? There are small cracks going places that escape the box so I plan to use both the fans either together working in the same direction(2@bottom blowing in or 2@top blowing out) or 1 fan blowing in/out and the other to use inside the box helping to give the plants some more air circulations. Im not quite sure what I plan to do yet.
I tested my pH with a saltwater aquarium tester and got the same reading of around 7.7 for the tap water I am using and the runoff coming from the pot. I hope this is wrong, I will try to get some pH test paper strips soon before I go and try to fix anything. For now I will use day-old brita filtered water for the plants until i find out the real pH of my runoff soil.
As of yet, the plants have not been separated to different pots. I am still concerned that they need a little more time to flourish and regain some of their strenth before i repot and restress them again. I'll take a pic of the room when I have a chance so you can see what it looks like now. Maybe ill wait to the first substantial looking leafage has spread..they look QUITE sad right now. very disappointing to find out that that halogen bulb was doing very little good and could of given me heat problems as well;this was my ONLY light on the seedlings for the entire first 4 weeks of their sprouting! ugg
Peace!
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Old Apr-28-2009, 06:08
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Welcome aboard

You have been blessed with some great advice, stick with it and you will see results

I'd also try to transplant them into individual pots ASAP... I didn't catch if you had transplanted them at all yet or just planted them straight into the 2gal... cuz if you put the plant into a big pot, the roots will keep growing, and the plant will focus most of it's energy on the roots. Explained better here The importance of a continuous canopy: It's all about EFFICIENCY, baby!

Many people have made the same mistakes that you have... if you browse around the "first grow" logs, you will see it over and over again.

Color test kits are no good for measuring soil run-off; they can only be used on clear liquids. You can get digital ones starting at $8 at home depot someone said, descent ones for $20 and up...

As for the Brita filter, I came across this...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Weedhound View Post
Whatever is in those filters such as Britta et al removes the minerals etc with salts.....these filters take out the GOOD minerals your plants need (like calcium etc) .....leave the bad stuff in and makes the sodium level of your water too high.

Go with your tap or consider RO or distilled.
You might need CalMag if you are using the Brita, I'm not positive, so best to do some searching about that. Or, once you find out your actual tap water ph and run-off ph, just use the tap water and adjust accordingly with ph up/down... Soil Runoff pH, Flushing to correct lockouts- Why and how to do it!

As for the ventilation, you can get the full answer plus more here--> Noob's guide to growroom set-up : a work in progress Basically, you want to pull the hot air out the top with the fan(s) and have a passive (no fan) intake on the bottom, preferably directly opposite from your exhaust. You will have to make these light-leak proof, just another thing to keep in mind.

Do you have any fan blowing around the grow area? An oscillating fan will help to move around fresh air, and strengthen the stems, which will reduce that stretching also.

Oh yeah, some perlite mixed in with the soil would help things a lot!

Good luck

Last edited by bigtopsfinn; Apr-28-2009 at 06:18.
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Old Apr-28-2009, 08:27
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all sounds good dmahny only thing is like bigtopsfinn said, try and repot them asap, the longer it goes, the bigger the potential problem is... totally understand about re-stressing the plants... but if the roots do get tangled, i can guarentee you are going to regret it.... there is a grow log on the boards somewhere right now where the person is a few weeks into flowering and has their roots tangled, and its causing some pretty massive problems for one of them... might be worth a read.

as for your ventalation... you want to put both fans at the top, and you want them both removing air from the box. you'll want to cut some passive intake holes at the bottom that new air will be pulled in through. there is some logical reasoning behind this:

1. heat rises, so putting your fans at the top helps ensure you are removing the most amount of heat always
2. oxygen is lighter than co2 - your plants need the co2, and you need the oxygen, since co2 is heavier than oxygen it stands to reason that it would be slightly more concentrated in lower levels in the air (but honestly, probably not all that much), but your plates are producing oxygen for you, so oxygen levels in the box are probably elevated compared to the rest of your house... and since the oxygen is lighter - it should rise with the heat... best to pump that out for your lungs to take advantage of... when your lungs aren;t busy sucking in smoke that is
3. removing air from the box instead of pushing new air into the box creates slightly negative air pressure inside the box - which as long as its not TOO negative won't do any harm and air is simply easier to circulate when there is less of it, not to mention less air means there is less capacity for heat build up (think about it - this is why space is exceptionally cold... there is just simply a big void of almost nothingness between us and the sun, its earth's atmosphere that holds all the heat in and keeps us warm)

you also mentioned you have some cracks throughout the box... that is fine if they are just letting air in... but if they are leaking light into the box as well, this will cause problems in your 12/12 light cycle... during the dark hours it needs to be completely dark inside... the bits of random light coming into the box during the dark hours will basically confuse your plants and cause some of your females to go hermie... which isn;t the end of the world for sure, but its (most of the time) undesirable.

when you cut the vent holes, you need to do something to let the air through, but block the light... i saw in somebody elses thread recently where somebody used the analogy of the U-joints you find in the plumbing of kitchen sinks and stuff... thats kind of similiar to what you need to make - the air will travel through the U perfectly fine, but all the light will get traped inside it
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Old Apr-29-2009, 22:43
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So what's wrong with the lil guys? Any guesses? Leaves are losing their chlorophyl or "burning". I am thinking it might NOT be a problem cause they coulda been "shocked" by the change in power of light so the new growth will be fine but this kinda seems like a funky theory to me cause I have been concerned on a possible pH problem or also a possible deficit in nitrogen, or something. I want to buy nutes, I want to buy a pH tester, I want to but more CFLs..but I'm poor so any suggestions on what my next move should be? I def need to resolve my pH questions don't I?.. I feel useless without that information.
Heres the set up and picks of the prettys:


see that?

and this

how about how these leaves are bending down?


Peace,
D$
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Old Apr-29-2009, 23:07
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think ya forgot the pics
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Old Apr-29-2009, 23:30
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reals?! because i can see em...their url'd from my cannabis.com album so you could see them on my profile if that didn't work
sry!
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Old Apr-30-2009, 06:00
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Did you get them re-potted yet? The roots could already be competing...
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Old Apr-30-2009, 15:03
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Transplant today

definitely not competing. I just repotted them. Got little, weak roots nothing more than 2 inches in diameter out and tap root is about 8-10 inch long. They didn't need it but now they're in separate pots so they are ready to go for a WHILE. Mixed 25% large sand and 75% MG with 4 inches of large rocks on the bottom just as i did in they're first pots. Probably about in a gallon or soil each. Are my pics still not attached on that last post??
go to my profile and look up the album, it'll show you the burns on the leaves. I think they have been too close to my lights. Hope they don't die! If they do, oh wells. Gotta to start somewhere. And I've learned a hellofalot so all in all it hasn't been too bad but I still want them to LIVE. Help! It MUST be my pH, what else could make these things so sad looking??? Soil-not really its just MG moisture control+sand, nutes-no, lighting-COULD have been in the past if they are still recovering from that, temp-NO, humidity-no, water-definite possibility..I can't thing of anything else now..over/under watering-I think not.
If you can't answer or aren't POSITIVE on your best guess give it a week so so we can see what they'll look like then and decide. Any suggestions are welcome though!
Peace

Last edited by dmahny88; Apr-30-2009 at 15:05.
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Old Apr-30-2009, 17:21
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yeah, i can;t see the pics... and going to your profile i don;t see your albums anywhere either though... i could be doing something totally wrong though...

once you get to 20 posts (your only 8 away) you should be able to attach pics to your posts normally though.

i wouldn;t totally rule out nutes just yet - i know your not adding any right now, but i believe the MG moisture control soil contains time-released nutes doesn;t it?

if you just transplanted the plants too, it could just be from the transplant and needing some recover time, but i don;t think that would explain burns on the leaves... would also depend where on the leaves the burns are, and which leaves are burned (ie. at the top, the bottom, where the lights are, everywhere, etc)... the devil is in the details! - but a picture is worth a thousand words too not sure if its just me that can;t see them or if its everybdy though... like i said, i might be doing something totally wrong.
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Old May-04-2009, 17:10
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Post

They've been really struggling..i see signs of life coming back in the form of new leaves...keep ur farmin fingers crossed, Jessica and Danica Patrick(*yes they were named*) just might make it!
more updates in the future,
hopefully notes of growth and prosperity
so until then..Peace....:jointsmile :

Last edited by dmahny88; May-04-2009 at 17:11.
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Old May-09-2009, 04:42
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Question *Note-humidity, misting

I have a misunderstanding of the idea of keeping your plant and its space moist(not causing any mold of course-but this isn't a risk during veg..) and ~middle~ in humidity, I hope this will be helpful to some one
The following thread was found on a question of how to mist your seed sprouting's newest leaves. I have not came across anything about use or technique of feeding water through the newest leaves of little sprouts; I know this is done on a later stage and on different clones but this thread explains:

Quote:
Originally Posted by JBonez:
", really, wouldnt cuttings need nitrogen? being that they wouldnt have access once they were taken from the mother plant? Im just curious because i have no clue!"

Posted by bud.uncle:
Nitrogen promotes vegetative growth, so if you don't leech the nitrogen the cutting will spend more time sprouting new leaves rather than roots. My clonebox is pretty cool in the fact that you can see the light green, nitrogen deficient cuttings quickly develope huge rootmasses. Next to them the healthy looking dark green clones grow roots at a dinosaur pace if it all.

Basically if a cutting is high in nutes, it doesn't need to grow new roots in attempt to intake more nutes.


OK. Now read that last line good. That is an important note and reminder, especially for me. n0000b
So nitrogen,...understood. We get how it works/ and benefits the plant. Moving on. So what is your technique for moisting leaves of seeded plants in a dry environment? Is spraying or lightly misting your plants not a good idea AT ALL? Then again there seems to be a bigger more broad question. What growing scheme is most optimal for a potted grow in terms or "promoting" root growth with a reduction in "promotion" of leaf growth or visa versa?? Since we can't assume which is the better alternative: energy spent in root growth or E in leaf growth=(high nitrogen) case by case FOR EACH SPECIFIC PLANT and its surrounding environment the answer is always presumably somewhere in between...So ill give you the most important information in this thread now and ill put this into a single simple question:

yep

heavy misting will leach Nitrogen from the plant

great if your preparing for taking cuttings

not so great if your veging

OK. So if I had a weak root system which I know for a fact is now booming outwards BUT I managed to kill/burn off the 4 first leaf sets with now 2 new sets coming in but only in a small way(maybe an square inch of good, new, healthy leafage if could guess). Basically I still have a small plant on top still. The bottom 3/4 leaf sets are dried, thinned, and light green/brown, so here is my question, and its only an abstract idea for the high and like-minded so if you dare, listen up. And don't be afraid to answer. Any words on this are appreciated
If a plant, whose first and final root life-stage is to be a root ball held in a pot then i feel that there is a possibility that in raising a plant from shortie to biggie that the most optimal growth is a fluctuation along its life period of root to leaf growth promotion. And does this not correlate with what pro growers fluctuate their nitrogen levels on?
My question: IS MISTING A YOUNG PLANT DIRECTLY WITH PHd WATER A BAD THING IN TERMS OF LEACHING?
Thanks for reading, enjoy!

PEEEEEACE
Should this post be moved??? I already feel stupid for putting this in my grow log ill probably repost this again into the advanced techniques if there is interest or if i don't get an answer haha i can't believe i was told and told again to buy a spray bottle and now im told not to overspray my plant's leaves..arg! failure
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Old May-09-2009, 11:59
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yo

bet you have your pics posted on the main site album not the forum album and there is no link from here too it post them in the one when you click your name from this page. From the sounds of things and what i was going to tell you because i have had similar sounding problems (cant see pics) is you probably need Nitro but looks like you figured that out. If the lower leaves are the ones turning yellow from the bottom up and outside in then its probably nitro.

peace
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Old May-23-2009, 17:03
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ah..20 posts=pics. Wish all that provisional rule info was easier to find. Anyways sorry for the long delay if you are even still following, what are you following you may ask? well my plants of course, here they are now. I am planning to put them into 12/12 flower this week and repot probably within the next 2-3 weeks. I will be changing/adding the lighting with ~80 more Watts of 2700K CFL's today or soon me thinks.
One is a FEMALE woot! I think ill smoke a j to formally celebrate this with my online crew The other is a male(?not sure yet but i will probably end up flowing only one plant) i think so ill wait and see until im sure then trash it. Damn im hungry. This was a bad time to start a post. Ill be back..with my j
No nutes have been added but now is the time. I think i will mix a 1:15 bottle of PISS and feed it that once. OK food. Ill be back on that note
Peace
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