WeedHound's Nute Schedule for Hydro/Botanicare - Cannabis Forums Message Boards - Medical Marijuana, Cannabis Club, Dispensary, News

Weedhound · #1 (**permalink**) Jan-18-2008, 22:44

By request....I'm not very good at detailiing things analytically so I'll just babble it out.

My nute supplies consist of

Botanicare Brand:

Cal Mag Plus
Pro Grow
Pro Bloom
Hydroplex
Liquid Karma
Sweet

Store bought 3% hydrogen peroxide
Cannazyme (Canna)
Dutch Master Reverse
Dutch Master Penetrator
R0 water.

Extra: Advanced Nutrients VHO (very High Output) foliar spray.

I maintain a ph from 5.6-6.2 all the way through my grow..

Starting about week two I generally give them 2tsp (10ml/gal) of 3% H202 every OTHER day until I put them into flower....then I switch to Cannazyme.

I germ seeds in rapid rooters....generally 4-7 days until I see a taproot coming out the bottom, then they go into the w/f system with higromite rocks, RO water and a drop of Superthrive per gallon (my waterfarms generally have about 2 gals water in them)
under mh bulb 400 watts....fairly high up at first...about 2 feet and brought down slowly over time. I start counting time from the day I put them in the system....not the day they germ.

Week 2: I use Pro Grow and CalMag at a 50/50 ratio through veg ALWAYS. I put in 100 ppms ProGrow and 100ppm CalMag.
Depending upon how they do I will add about 50 more ppm of each the third or fourth day into the week, keeping ppms from 200-300 over the course of the week.

Week 3: 150 ppms/each CalMag/ProGrow plus 1ml/gallon Liquid Karma. ppms 300-350...again adding 1 extra ml/gal LK midweek if all looks good (ppms about 350-375)

It's also about this time I start using the VHO (three sets of true leaves) according the directions on the bottle as a foliar spray. I spray them with it daily, then turn the strong light off and let them dry with a fan before I turn lights back on. I'll use the VHO up until 10 days into blooming.

Week 4 CalMag/ProGrow 200ppms apiece plus 2ml/gal LK plus 1ml Sweet for the 2 gallons. ppms 400-450. About day 4, another ml of Sweet......ppms 450-ish.

Week 4: CalMag and Pro Grow/250ppm apiece plus 3ml/gal LK and 2ml/gal Sweet. Again...up Sweet by 1 ml gallon during week. ppms 500-600. I usually top them once during week 4 as well.

Week 5: CalMag and Pro Grow 300ppms each. 4ml/gal LK and 3ml gal Sweet.......adding 1ml/gal Sweet midweek. ppms 600-700.

I usually turn them in week 6.

Week one in bloom; Cal Mag and Pro Grow 400ppms apiece. 4ml/gal MK and 4ml/gal Sweet. I also start Cannazyme at the beginning of bloom at 5ml/gallon and keep it at this dosage until flushing. On the first full day of bloom I spray DutchMaster Reverse (with Penetrator)to help prevent hermies. Ppms 800-900

Week 2 Bloom: Cal Mag 400ppms plus Pro Boom 500ppms and 4ml/gal of LK and Sweet both. ppms between 1000-1100

Day 10 Bloom: Second Reverse Dose according to directions on bottle.

Week 3: CalMag 400ppms, Pro Grow 600ppms, 4ml/gal both LK and Sweet. ppms between 1100-1200.

Week 4: I start the bloom enhancer at a 50/50 ratio with my bloom nutes:

CalMag 400ppm
Hydroplex 350ppm
Pro Bloom 350 ppm
Lk./Sweet 4ml/gal ppms....between 1200-1300

Week 5:

CalMag.......300ppm
Hydroplex 350
Pro Bloom 350
Lk and Sweet......7ml/gal. The number comes up under 1400ppms and I don't go above that.,...I actually try to keep things at around 1375-ish.

That's pretty much where things stay until flush time....and that changes depending on what I'm growing.

Adding and changing the solutions frequently are things that I've found seem to really help the plants grow well. Generally I'll drain some of the older nute solution out and toss it whehever I make some sort of change in the nutes etc....generally about twice a week. Towards week 5 and on Ill be adding several gallons of full strengh nute solutions every day or so and that helps keep things in balance as well.

With RH I was taught to always aim for the 30% and I try very hard to stick with that.

Fungus/mold spray; Serenade
Bug Spray Fox Farms Don't Bug Me Both of these used only as needed.

DISCLAIMER

This thread is not advocating a certain brand, schedule or anything else as being either "better" or "the only REAL" way to grow. It is simply the nute schedule that I use and have had good success with. I'm still experimenting with different things myself and as I find what works, doesn't etc I will add it on as needed.

2nd Disclaimer

I just read that too much phospherus can lock out certain nutes/etc so am thinking on my next grow to go with 400CalMag all the way during bloom and keeping the bloom nutes at about 600. I will report of that AS IT HAPPENS

Opie Yutts · #2 (**permalink**) Jan-18-2008, 23:48

And coming soon: Liquid Light. Trust me.

Weedhound · #3 (**permalink**) Jan-19-2008, 00:02

Liquid Light? Who makes it? I'll google it.

I completely forgot to add.....I'm going by ppms @700 conversion.

Weedhound · #4 (**permalink**) Jan-19-2008, 00:09

DutchMaster. Do you use it? What's this about this stuff and the light? Spill YOUR beans...

MVP · #5 (**permalink**) Jan-19-2008, 01:59

Thanks Amiga for the post! I'll have to read tomorrow when my tired eyes have rested and are working properly

MVP

Opie Yutts · #6 (**permalink**) Jan-19-2008, 02:59

I can't get Liquid Light in my area yet, but I got a free sample along with a sample of Penetrator. I don't believe all their claims, such as it turns a 400W light into a 600W, but I do believe it's pretty darn incredible stuff. After the first application I swear they grew an inch in 6 hours. It sure seemed that way, anyway. My leaves were a little droopy before hand, and in general that's the way they've always looked after a long hard day of sucking in the sun. They looked a little better when I checked in on them mornings, but holy cow, nothing like this LL made em do. They all had their arms outstretched and raised as high as they possible could go, and after a few days they are pretty much staying that way. When I go to bend a fan leaf out of the way, now its like wrestling with an alligator. They will not go down easily or without a fight.

I plan at some point to give a more detailed report here (again):
http://boards.cannabis.com/basic-gro...acle-food.html
I already had some decent stuff posted there and then the web site got improved and it all went away.

Weedhound · #7 (**permalink**) Jan-19-2008, 13:24

So you never got the rest of your stuff back Opie? I thought once they worked on it everything came back with the photos. Sorry to hear that about your post.

I'll look into The LL....always looking for something else to improve things and I've been very happy with the DutchMaster brand so far.

Dutch Pimp · #8 (**permalink**) Jan-19-2008, 14:02

Quote:

I maintain a ph from 5.6-6.2 all the way through my grow..

Hi all...

I been looking for a place to stick this...it probably works for hydro too? If it's not appropriate here.. we can get it nuked...

Weedhound · #9 (**permalink**) Jan-19-2008, 14:16

DP.... I wonder about you.....what else do you have hiding in your pockets?

Dutch Pimp · #10 (**permalink**) Jan-19-2008, 14:37

I smell hydro sticky here....

PlantHeadJ · #11 (**permalink**) Jan-30-2008, 18:03

Thanks WH!!! I just have a couple simple questions. First if I'm using 7.0 tap water that I am phing do I need to modify the Cal/Mag numbers? Also in week two of bloom it says to use pro grow...typo or....? Thank You all so much for taking the time to help out!!

PlantHeadJ · #12 (**permalink**) Jan-30-2008, 18:06

Sorry it was week 3 bloom that it said to go with pro grow. Just trying to clarify. You like the Advanced foliar feed better than the Spray-n-Grow or the Dutch Master? Sorry for all the questions, but can anybody tell me anything about Dutch Master Gold? And what exactly does reverse do? Ok I'll stop talking and listen..hehe..Thanks

Weedhound · #13 (**permalink**) Jan-30-2008, 18:09

Wow that's a great question that has never occured to me because i've always used RO water.....and I must say I'm honestly not sure what would be the correct ratio imo. I'm really glad you asked that however because now I will go find out for you and then we'll be that much more in the know. With regular tap water you should not need your CalMAg at all but give a me a day or two to contact THE BRAIN (my hydro guy) and I'll find out for you about the correct ratios and whether or not you would use slightly lesser numbers for your base nutes.

When I turn my plants I actually do keep them on the grow nutes the very first week of bloom and then switch them over during the second week.....or perhaps even later if they've really taken a jump as they seem to do in the first couple weeks of blooming.

Weedhound · #14 (**permalink**) Jan-30-2008, 18:13

Another detail.....I have since stopped using the VHO by AN; not because it doesn't work well but because I HAVE started using the Liquid Light as Opie suggested and ALSO (as he suggested).....the stuff works GREAT so I would highly recommend to one and all. Read and follow the directions VERY carefully however....Dutch Master makes some strong products.

Dutch Master

PlantHeadJ · #15 (**permalink**) Jan-30-2008, 18:14

Oh WH you are #1 in my book. I'll wait till I hear from you to go forward. I keep hearing such great things about Liquid Light but not by anyone currently using the product. It's pricey but like Opie said that if it does 1/4 of what it claims then that's gonna rock! Thanks again all!!

PlantHeadJ · #16 (**permalink**) Jan-30-2008, 18:33

Sorry you posted so fast you read my mind and answered my question all in one shot...wow. Do you follow the label or dilute? It says twice a week until run-off is this correct? and also do you quit it 2nd week into flower?

rhizome · #17 (**permalink**) Jan-31-2008, 07:33

Apparantly I have to spread some rep around before I can hit ya again, WH.

**stinkyattic** · #18 (**permalink**) Jan-31-2008, 11:00

I smell sticky too. Oh wait- that's resin on my fingers.
This will be a good resource for new growers.

PlantHeadJ · #19 (**permalink**) Jan-31-2008, 11:26

This is Gold! Anybody else feel like writing out their feeding schedules that they have had good luck with? I don't want to endorse anybody's product, but if we had a good reliable feed schedule from multipule products....Valuable info for people switching nute brands or getting started! Thanks everybody for their input!

Weedhound · #20 (**permalink**) Jan-31-2008, 14:35

Plant:

I've erased my answer twice here iin typing (groan) so am going to answer your q quickly before I erase it again and then I'll go back and address the rest.

I spoke to The Brain. He suggested that if you use tap water to cut your total numbers by about one third and then add the number of your tap water on after that.
If I were using a total of 600ppm (CalMag 300 and Pro Grow 300) and were using tap water I'd go with Pro Grow 400-500 plus whatever number your tap water is. He felt doubling the base nute numbers would just be too much.

The Brain also said that among different plants, strains etc he has seen variations of plants' ability to take nutes from 900-1800 depending on the plants so it's quite individual. Start on the lower side and work up keeping a close eye out for nuteburn.

I originally put all this info in one post that I then accidently erased EVERYTHING so I'm going to post this part and in the next post I'll tell you what to watch for as far as nuteburn.

Weedhound · #21 (**permalink**) Jan-31-2008, 14:51

Thank god that one post made it. What kills me is that I know the entire page I typed is floating around somewhere.....but I can't access it......

C'est la vie....

SO......here are the things I watch for in my plants that warn me my ppms are too high and I am burning them with too many nutes.

1. A quickly rising ph in a previously stable system. I find it will take more ph down than usual to get the ph in the solution back to normal and the number will rise again quickly over and over.

2. Leaf edges and tips curled down It pays to make sure your room temps etc are ok and then immediately check your ph....is it rising, etc? This is the stage that I like to solve the problem before it gets any worse.

3. The ppms in your solution will start rising very quickly......as the plant leaves the nutes behind and sucks up water like mad to try and compensate. It also pays to check your ppms daily since you WILL be checking your ph all the time just to get an idea of your daily trends. Then when something changes it will get you wondering whats up.

Luckily all an easy fix in hydro....just add water to drop your ppms back about 100-150. (check ph....always check ph!!

) It takes a few days for plants to get back on track from nuteburn so watch ph carefully and keep checking and diluting the solution as needed until the plant stabilizes.

PlantHeadJ · #22 (**permalink**) Jan-31-2008, 15:00

that sounds good, I wondered about the cal/mag with tap water. So my tap water is 130 so add 170 cal/mag and 300 nutes. no, go with 130 plus the nutes to get to my desired level? that is what I originally thought but I want to do the best job I can. Thank you for going through the trouble of finding out!!

Weedhound · #23 (**permalink**) Jan-31-2008, 15:05

To have been made a sticky.....I want to thank.......

Stinky any chance we could change the title to Weedhounds Feeding Schedule...Weedhound Kindly Accepts Donations....

Plant, you are absolutely right about my error. Thanks for pointing that out.....I completely missed it.

In week 3 of Bloom the solution should be Pro Bloom NOT Pro Grow. Once I go to the bloom nutes in week 2 i do NOT go back to the Grow nutes at ALL.

Weedhound · #24 (**permalink**) Jan-31-2008, 15:18

Hi Plant....actually no CalMag at all......Just the grow nutes and whatever supplements you want.

It's probably easier from your end to look at the total number of ppms for a certain week and reduce that number by one third.....then quietly add your 130 of tap water.

For instance......week 2 of veg....my total number of ppms are about 200 (using CalMag). In your case you want your number to be about 2/3 of that BEFORE YOU ADD the 130 ppms from your tap water. So you would want about 125- 140-ish ppms of Pro Grow and then add 130pp of your tap water on top of that. Your total ending number would be HIGHER than mine....yours would be 250- 270.

See with tap water you get to toss all that chatter about magnesium and calcium out the window......UNLESS you start having a problem later. For now you should just worry about using the nutes etc at 2/3 of the total....minus your tap water ppms. It would pay to start low and add things slowly as I mentioned before....easy to burn especially when they are young.

You will also want to make sure that your tap water will hold a stable ph....that was the problem I had with my well water that made me turn to RO water. I could not get the ph to stay in the desired range for long no matter what and immediately stopped having the problem after switching to RO water.

PlantHeadJ · #25 (**permalink**) Jan-31-2008, 15:28

well I've been soaking hydroton in ph'de water for two days and so far so good. Town water and never had trouble in past. PH stays pretty darn good once set. Should have everything up and running soon. Just having second thoughts on which system to go with this time around. DWC, flood...I really liked the scrog years ago when I used it, but that is so much veg time and work!! I'll also have some pics soon! Thanks again for your valuable help!

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