So I visit this site pretty much everyday reading this and reading that, trying to absorb as much info as possible. So I was looking at the FAQ section of cannabis.com (not the one on the message board area) and to my surprize I read that the optimum PH for Hydro is 5.2 and not 6.0, actually the PH range stated best to be in is like 5.1 to 5.9. anyone want to jump on board the discussion train about this? also states that you can lower your ppm by using this range since plants can more easily intake water and such through their roots if this PH range is used. Text
there is the link for all to enjoy

I've been reading up on here like you... also been seeing the different recommendations for hydro ph. Don't know if you've seen this yet:

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Trainwreck - My first grow

Two Trainwreck's

Things work best for me in the lower ranges and yes I can use less nutes to get the same results. However I have noticed that my Papaya likes it about 5.2 but my Hawaiian x skunk x big bud likes it higher about 5.8. I just can't seem to grow both in the same tub. I run 6 per tub and have to keep a good eye on them and not get confused. The papaya can take 5.8 but the hawaiian will start to lock out at 5.2 and show signs quickly. I used to pump the nutes to all of it but I find it better to keep up with PH more.

We got some redhair skunk and some northern lights getting ready to clone so I will have to learn what they like. Also have some sage that needs to be prooffed and we a set for the rest of the year..

I read all this a long time ago but getting old I find I need to go back and just keep reading. If I had not used the search and read so much, Zandor and Latewood would of come to my house and PIMP SLAPPED me a dozen times back then.

Thanks for the reread Tinytoon.

Good topic Tinytoon!
Many of the plant problems I've seen asked about here, are at least partial PH problems; that appear as certian nutrient deficency or lock out problems.

I am a firm believer in the phrase "when all else fails...read the instructions".
See what the mfg of your stuff has to say about recomendations both ppm and ph.

In my personnel grow, using rockwool w/Dutch Masters' Gold, I find best results 5.3-5.5 and is close to mfg suggestion of 5.5. In another grow using Pro-Mix I use what the local greenhouse operator's use ph of 6 +/- .2 and never had a problem using DM Advance in that grow. (DM recommends 5.8-6.5 btw).

As LOC NOR points out tho, it can be strain dependent. It is not unusual to find you need to go a little lower or higher to make certian plants happiest.

Bigtopfinn,
That chart is excellent to give people an idea about what nutes may or not be available at differant PH's. (I saw that chart just last week on another board, while talking about Pro-mix and PH) Pro-mix seems to fall between hydo and soil for PH use.
The chart also gives you an idea why you can use less nutrients if you hit the PH correctly.

I am curious why more hobbyists and small indoor container growers don't use pro-mix since it is so inexpensive and very forgiving to grow in.

well atm I am using GH 3 part and it is the only thing I have used since day 1 and got no gripes here. Since after a year or so of growing now and I still dont have a PH meter i recently found some combo meters on E-Bay that will do temp (C or F), EC or PPM and also PH for under $100 and it is a continous read (sensor goes into tub and reads constantly). Only thing I have been doing my PH with is an aquarium kit and to tell you the truth I have got to be real lucky to get the yields that we have been getting but I have only been running like 5 or 6 plants in a E&F setup. Maybe we all can compare notes on strain, PH level used, brand of nutes, and type of system. I think it would be quite informative to know that growing Northern Lights in an E&F setup best grows at PH 5.7 with GH 3part but in DWC you would see better results at 5.1 ....... just a thought but for right now it's time to grab a bite to eat and sit back and relax

Also been running the GH for awhile, in my dwc I adjust to 5.6 when changing rez and don't adjust at all after that, it's at 6.4 usually when I change my nutes out. Most of that raise is prob from top offs, seeing as my tap is right around 7.2! The drift in pH I believe helps the plant to take up the full spectrum of nutrients available to it.

@5.6 your getting the Calcium and Manganese.

@5.9 and above your Phosphorus and Magnesium

Everything else is available in between, you need all of it.

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You guy's prolly know i run my Ph between 5.7-5.9,I also use GH 3 part,I only have PH issue's when im to far outside these number's.

Dive

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it is better to remain silent...and be thought a fool...than to speak up...and remove all doubt!

Dive's pre-bust dirt grow
Dive's Live Nude Girl's

wow pete I thought you would have yelled since I didnt have a PH meter yet LOL

My Bro refuses to use a PH meter. He has well water that the gods drink from. He uses very little calmag and GH nutes brings it to perfect. I need a big water tank on a truck to go get it or something. LOL

If I don't have at least 2 PH pens to double check my stuff goes bad fast. Go figure. LOL

well someone is very lucky not useing a Ph meter!

I used to run Ph at 5.2 but was harder to maintain that low(needed checked three times a day)
now it is between 5.4-5.8, because of availabilty of Ca, and Mg
my northernberry likes it low,my nevelle haze likes it higher,so it is a compremise

Latewood addresses this when he suggests raising the Ph over the last 4 weeks or so

but yields have almost doubled, with the higher Ph levels?

Daddynobucks

What are you doing? arent you suppose to be in the car...driving...to my place? HAHA see you in a few hour's pal.

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it is better to remain silent...and be thought a fool...than to speak up...and remove all doubt!

Dive's pre-bust dirt grow
Dive's Live Nude Girl's

Like I said I have been really lucky without a PH meter but the aquarium kit obviously gets me close enough to 6.0 for it to grow and so far yields have been good