If the ppm's and conductivity numbers are kept within reasonable levels, and the plants are healthy, is it still advisable to use a leaching solution on them every once and a while? If so, how often?

Also, by the way, what are good guidelines to go by as far as EC numbers? I understand 5.8-6.0 is good for ph, I am not sure about EC though.

Any good online guides or even books anyone can recommend on the subject? Thanks in advance.

the ec changes cionstantly depending on the stage of the plant and the species grown
here is a simple guide that we all use followed by a way of maximising the feed,
clones 0.45 to 0.95
veg
0.95 to 01.20
flowering from 1.40 to 2.00
the amount of soluttions needed to achieve these levels depends entirely on the quality of water you use!
to maximise in the growth [veg] and flowering stages only, daily increase the EC value by say 0,25. keeping a good eye on the plants, at the very first sign of nute burn,at the tips, back of by 0,25 and your at max the plant can get!
always change the tank once every week! fortnightly will impeed on the water quality unless you have a very large water resevior and very small system, and during flowering the streangth will be increasing with the use of boosters like npk 13 14 or similar!
good luck

welcome to the world of endless possibilities,,,,,hydroponics!

I use the meters as a set KNOWN point.
If the plant has a leaf tip burn of 1/32 I add till I get a 1/8 in burn. NOW noting the ppm and ph levels , just change as needed.
The next crop is x ppm and ph levels.
Keep track of the input ph and ppm and ajust levels to meet the set point.
It usualy takes 3 days to see what the plant likes.
AS ALWAYS IF THINGS TURN TO SHIT ,,,,,, FLUSH.
Always clean your meters and calibrate them I have only used that method for a few decades, and it still works.

In your post oldsanclem, are you saying that if you see 1/32" burn in the leaf tips, that you add nutrient until you see more of the leaf tips burned (1/8"), and then back off nutes slowly until they stop burning?

Also, I have a truncheon-style EC meter, it's actually a 'D.S. Dipstick,' made in New Zealand. The unit says factory calibrated, and I cannot find any solutions for it nor a way to calibrate it. Are these units really self-calibrating for as long as they last?


Thanks in advance.

I use a real expensive ph and ppm meter and do not trust it, or any as a mater of fact.
You can buy ppm at 1000 and 1500 calibratited and ph of 4.0,,6.0,, 10.00 at most hydro shops and chemical supply houses.

In your post oldsanclem, are you saying that if you see 1/32" burn in the leaf tips, that you add nutrient until you see more of the leaf tips burned (1/8"), and then back off nutes slowly until they stop burning?
***** You need to read my replay again. ****
you leave it at the same numbers of ppm and Ph. Effectly plants growing at max effort.