Latewood's Legacy: GH 3-part and CalMag tutorial and discussion - Page 3 - Cannabis Forums Message Boards - Medical Marijuana, Cannabis Club, Dispensary, News

socialistpete · #51 (**permalink**) May-07-2008, 04:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by elskeetro

so 1-1-1 = 8ml-8ml-8ml X 5 gallons = 40ml-40ml-40ml....right?

In veg i have a 13 gallon res with 9 gallons of water...does that mean i should mix:

1-1-1 = 8ml-8ml-8ml X 9 gallons = 72-72-72 ???

Correct my young fiend!

socialistpete · #52 (**permalink**) May-07-2008, 04:52

This is what I run and you've seen the results. For flower i use 20-40-240 for my 10 gallon res, thats why I told you I use about 2 gallons of flower to each gallon of micro and gro. Also I add the kool bloom at flower and Liquid Karma to the clones feeding.

On a side note I'm just about to bottle that beer.

**stinkyattic** · #53 (**permalink**) May-07-2008, 10:12

Latewood may now be found running hygronomics . com, which is a great resource for those of us who aim to produce our own food and live in ecological balance. While canncom is no longer his home, he and Zandor made this grow area what it is today and I've re-stuck this excellent thread because it is so valuable as a starting point for a grower looking to expand his knowledge into the water... It's good reading for all of us.

elskeetro · #54 (**permalink**) May-07-2008, 14:54

yeah man, my order of GH nutes came in today. i'll be doing a res change as soon as i get out of work. If you have a few free moments you should swing thru and see what's happening.

i have a few fun tales to tell you.

About the beer, let me know when you are gonna bottle that shit up. If you need a hand or want some company i have nothing happening after lights out (7:00 pm).

sweet deal. thanks bud.
"Skeet"

**stinkyattic** · #55 (**permalink**) May-07-2008, 15:01

Hey guys would you mind taking the beer talk elsewhere? Not a topic for this site. Thanks.

I'm going to be going through and cleaning up this thread to make it more approachable pretty seen.

elskeetro · #56 (**permalink**) May-07-2008, 21:06

Sorry bout the beer. I'll get back to the topic at hand.

So i got my GH 3 part Nutes today. Did a full res change on both veg and flower.

Everything seems cool except for my PPMs and i'm still learning what that's all about and how to control it.

on my veg side:

i use 9 gallons of water, so i ph'd my tap water to 5.8 and then added the 1-1-1 (72-72-72ml) to the water like i'm sure i'm supposed to. I checked the PPM and just plain water was roughly 180ppm. then when i added the nutes, it jumped up to 1100ppm. That seems high for veg to me, but i'm following the recipe...thoughts?

On the flower side i use 10 gallons of water. so i'm in week 3 of flower so i used the .25-1-2 (20ml-80ml-160ml) and my PPM is only around 1100...which seems low for flower, but i'm following the recipe...thoughts?

also, i have a full bottle of B'Cuzz PK 13-14. I'd like to use it if possible, otherwise it'll just sit around for eternity.

Does anyone have any advice on how to straighten out my PPM (if they are in fact wacky!) and any advice on adding the PK 13-14 to this mix would be appreciated as well.

thanks and sorry for noobin' on ya'll.

Skeet

socialistpete · #57 (**permalink**) May-08-2008, 01:12

Theres a lot of shit in this thread but later in it latewood explains that for the flower you should use 2-4-24 for flower, which is what I've been doing try this out and see what your ppms are, but as you know I know nothing about ppm readings. I prob won't be able to stop over until the weekend unless you guys are still up around 1am, I'm sure your shit will be fine.

elskeetro · #58 (**permalink**) May-08-2008, 10:38

hmmm...i just read through the entire thread and some more board searching looking for the 2-4-24 reference and couldn't find anything. I did however find some talk about 0-1-3 and LW using hammerhead 9-18 as well as talk of other bloom boosters. That leads me to believe i'll be alright adding in a bit of pk 13-14.

Pete, i've seen your results so i'm not disagreeing with your 2-4-24 suggestion, but i think i'll stick close to what i've read with the addition of the pk 13-14 until i'm comfortable with the process, then i'll see if i can push it a bit more.

fun times. thanks all for the info.

Skeet.

socialistpete · #59 (**permalink**) May-10-2008, 03:33

Actually I think latewood might have told me that in an email I cant remember. Don't forget I also use Kool Bloom in flower.

elskeetro · #60 (**permalink**) May-10-2008, 08:31

Hmm...i do remember you saying that you used KB. Which do ou use? i did some searching and there are 2 Kool Bloom products...both are from GH, one is 2-45-28 and the other is 0-10-10? I'm thinking the latter is kinda similar to the pk 13/14 (0-13-14) but i'm not sure.

I had some issues with pk13/14 really wacking out my pH. it jump from 5.8 to 6.5 in a matter of seconds and it took me 2 teaspoons of pH down to fix it. rather discouraging.

anyways. We'll probably be harvesting the NLxS this coming week. We snipped a little lower bud to sample ahead of time. It was quite nice regardless of the quickdry and lack of curing. i can't wait to see the final product. if you have time you should check them out before they get the ol' hatchet.

Later,
Skeet

socialistpete · #61 (**permalink**) May-12-2008, 02:05

2-45-28 is the one and unlike the packaging I use it through the whole flower cycle. I will also bee harvesting this weekend.

kcabwards · #62 (**permalink**) Jun-20-2008, 15:58

now i'm totally confused can someone please clarify.

use 1 1 1 in veg
use 1 .5 3 in first half of flower? "or is this the new formula for the last half of flower?"
use 0 1 3 in last half of flower?

and it goes G M B right?

or am i still wrong?

elskeetro · #63 (**permalink**) Jun-22-2008, 10:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by kcabwards

now i'm totally confused can someone please clarify.

use 1 1 1 in veg
use 1 .5 3 in first half of flower? "or is this the new formula for the last half of flower?"
use 0 1 3 in last half of flower?

and it goes G M B right?

or am i still wrong?

You're Close...

1-1-1 in veg.

.25 - 1 - 2 - first half of flower

1 - .5 - 3 - second half of flower.

the idea is to give higher P and K and less N. especially towards the end...many suggest cutting N out completely 7-10 days before you start your flush. Like latewood said, use this as a guideline and adjust as you see fit.

hope that helped,
Skeet

FourTwenty4Life · #64 (**permalink**) Feb-09-2009, 16:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by latewood

After experimenting for 2 years with Advanced Nutrients/additives...
Botanicare Pure blend Pro/additives...and GH3-part/additives.
I fond this formula works and yields the best; And leaves the roots healthy throughout grow. Goodluck

This should answer a lot of question's you newb's have, and It should save you some money in the longrun.

Since a lot of you get caught up in the Lucas Method. I found this to yield more. However if you have space limitations, just remove the Grow from the formula for smaller plants/yield

START>>>Here is a higher yielding alternative to cut and dried lucas method...
Use grow part in veg 1-1-1 and create high yield bushes=less plants=less trouble, same yield overall.
In flower...use squewed 3-part
.25-1-2 for 1st 4 weeks
weeks 4/5 revert to lucas 0-1-2. Cutting the nitrogen back.
High yield philosphy...Grow bigger, but less...

From 35 gallon rez I dip a 5g bucket and add nutes. I have a turkey baster syringe that sucks up exactly 40 ml if you fill it, So that works perfectly.

5 gallon formula...convert as necessary...

Starting with reverse-osmosis water

Values:
1=8ml,
8ml per gallon
5g=40ml

Veg 1-1-1 = 40-40-40

Flower .25-1-2 = 10-40-80

Finish 0-1-2 = 0-40-80
------------------------------------------------
Veg:40-40-40

add calmag+/3-5ml per gallon **ph5.8 water for topoff's in between nute change... I do not use calmag in nute change solution.
So. I am doing what you are doing except I don't use carboload, I use Liquid Karma/or Seablast/ or some type of Vit-b and sparingly (this stuff cause all kinds of foliage. (Especially under-foliage and I find the too much under growth can causes airflow, and pest problems)

Use LK/Vit-b as I do Calmag+ for topoffs's in between nute change. Alternate topoff solutions each cycle; switching out LiquidKarma for Calmag+ every other week in between your weekly nute change (every 7-10 days).

Example: 3-part, topoff CM+, nute change 3-part, topoff LK, nute change 3-part, topoff CM+...etc, etc.
hope this makes sense.
------------------------------------------------
Flower stage:
Start off with all 3 parts
same value=8ml x's 5 G's=40ml=1 part

Campared to lucas 0-1-2/0-40-80 for flower...
Use .25-1-2/15-40-80 per 5 gallons. You get more mass using the nitrogen at this stage.

It is safe to say this is close to the Advanced Nutrients values, but I simplifiied the recipe by going to GH/lucas values
Actually, they are General Hydroponincs values...right off the bottle. tweak as you need.

In week *4/5 flower. I switch to 0-40-80, and continue alternating CM+/LK topoff process. I topoff at least every other day. this is PK boost time for 8 week finish, I just use clean 0-40-80 until PK transition. so for 9-12 week finish you would hold off on PK/Overdrive, whatever...
Use Overdrive, or high pk formula for a week or 2 prior to final flush.

Flush w/Florakleen.

*week 4/5 of flower. drop ph to 5.4 to make PK nutes more available to plants. increase the ph each week .1... i.e. wk4-ph5.4, wk5 ph5.5, wk6 ph5.6, wk7 ph5.7, wk 8 5.8 finish...Again; If you require longer finishing time, You hold off on this ph transition.
**most of the time, calmag+/LK will buffer the water's ph and you don't have to adjust.

So that is my take...I don't even right it down anymore. I just go with the flow. Sorry about rambling on, but I figured I could go ahead and copy/paste this explanation to my notepad for publication on my hydroponics website.

I invite You to come over to: http://hygronomics.com/forum1 post some hydro question's there, help me build traffic there, and everyone can benefit form the knowledge gained. We can discuss all the hydroponics you want and countless other topics.

I dont think you realize how many people have no clue what you're talking about...Noobs to growing need a simpler step by step instruction. I found Jorge Cervantes Growers bible to be a great first read on overall growing. Honestly though, most noobs will not understand this...i barely do & ive grown be4. lol

cannakeeper · #65 (**permalink**) Feb-09-2009, 22:32

Whats soo hard to understand? The values listed are in ml/gal and 5 gal as a reference. example. .25-1-2= 1/4 of a part-1 part-2 parts. 8ml is one part so.. 2ml-8ml-16ml per gallon 10-40-80 is number of ml of each of the 3 part nutes per 5 gallon reference. Just work with the ml per gallon=8ml. The first set of numbers seen throughout this thread...0-1-2 is refering to no ml of grow=0 parts, 8ml of micro=1part, 16ml of bloom= 2 parts..forget the references like 40-40-40 or 10-40-80...etc, those are the total ml per 5 gal of each of the 3 nutes, Not the NPK values like on a fertilizer bag. hope that helps

FourTwenty4Life · #66 (**permalink**) Feb-09-2009, 22:45

I guess you make sense but 2 of my friends read it & they didnt understand either. I haven't grown in a while because I had failed attempts so I'm looking to do things right very shortly...small grow with 4 plants, 1 hps 400w light, 2 fans, and some CO2 tablets plus all soil/nutes that VapedG13 recommends. Problem is that it's still cold out and heat isn't always constantly on 24/7 but soon...ill be posting grow log w/ pics.

AllforMe · #67 (**permalink**) Feb-19-2009, 09:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by FourTwenty4Life

I dont think you realize how many people have no clue what you're talking about...Noobs to growing need a simpler step by step instruction. I found Jorge Cervantes Growers bible to be a great first read on overall growing. Honestly though, most noobs will not understand this...i barely do & ive grown be4. lol

Nice how you opened up a 2+ year old post to bash a guy who hasn't been here in 2 years. Plus anyone who has ever mixed 1 batch of general hydroponics nutes could easily understand this if they read every post on the first page where he answers questions. There is a reason this is a sticky.

I myself have been growing with 3-2-1 then 2-4 with 1=to only 2.5ml (the general hydroponics feed chart cut in half) I was told a long time ago that you don't want to use full strength nutes in dwc because of the constant feeding. I have been lazy and let the ppms get up to 2100 due to water drinking and lack off topoffs, and they never died. My water is about 180ppm, and my total finished ppm in flower is usually around 1000. I think I am going to try this and see how she grows!

socialistpete · #68 (**permalink**) Feb-19-2009, 16:22

Allforme you wont be disappointed after trying this, and thanks for saying what I wanted too

immortal420 · #69 (**permalink**) Feb-19-2009, 16:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by latewood

After experimenting for 2 years with Advanced Nutrients/additives...
Botanicare Pure blend Pro/additives...and GH3-part/additives.
I fond this formula works and yields the best; And leaves the roots healthy throughout grow. Goodluck

This should answer a lot of question's you newb's have, and It should save you some money in the longrun.

Since a lot of you get caught up in the Lucas Method. I found this to yield more. However if you have space limitations, just remove the Grow from the formula for smaller plants/yield

START>>>Here is a higher yielding alternative to cut and dried lucas method...
Use grow part in veg 1-1-1 and create high yield bushes=less plants=less trouble, same yield overall.
In flower...use squewed 3-part
.25-1-2 for 1st 4 weeks
weeks 4/5 revert to lucas 0-1-2. Cutting the nitrogen back.
High yield philosphy...Grow bigger, but less...

From 35 gallon rez I dip a 5g bucket and add nutes. I have a turkey baster syringe that sucks up exactly 40 ml if you fill it, So that works perfectly.

5 gallon formula...convert as necessary...

Starting with reverse-osmosis water

Values:
1=8ml,
8ml per gallon
5g=40ml

Veg 1-1-1 = 40-40-40

Flower .25-1-2 = 10-40-80

Finish 0-1-2 = 0-40-80
------------------------------------------------
Veg:40-40-40

add calmag+/3-5ml per gallon **ph5.8 water for topoff's in between nute change... I do not use calmag in nute change solution.
So. I am doing what you are doing except I don't use carboload, I use Liquid Karma/or Seablast/ or some type of Vit-b and sparingly (this stuff cause all kinds of foliage. (Especially under-foliage and I find the too much under growth can causes airflow, and pest problems)

Use LK/Vit-b as I do Calmag+ for topoffs's in between nute change. Alternate topoff solutions each cycle; switching out LiquidKarma for Calmag+ every other week in between your weekly nute change (every 7-10 days).

Example: 3-part, topoff CM+, nute change 3-part, topoff LK, nute change 3-part, topoff CM+...etc, etc.
hope this makes sense.
------------------------------------------------
Flower stage:
Start off with all 3 parts
same value=8ml x's 5 G's=40ml=1 part

Campared to lucas 0-1-2/0-40-80 for flower...
Use .25-1-2/15-40-80 per 5 gallons. You get more mass using the nitrogen at this stage.

It is safe to say this is close to the Advanced Nutrients values, but I simplifiied the recipe by going to GH/lucas values
Actually, they are General Hydroponincs values...right off the bottle. tweak as you need.

In week *4/5 flower. I switch to 0-40-80, and continue alternating CM+/LK topoff process. I topoff at least every other day. this is PK boost time for 8 week finish, I just use clean 0-40-80 until PK transition. so for 9-12 week finish you would hold off on PK/Overdrive, whatever...
Use Overdrive, or high pk formula for a week or 2 prior to final flush.

Flush w/Florakleen.

*week 4/5 of flower. drop ph to 5.4 to make PK nutes more available to plants. increase the ph each week .1... i.e. wk4-ph5.4, wk5 ph5.5, wk6 ph5.6, wk7 ph5.7, wk 8 5.8 finish...Again; If you require longer finishing time, You hold off on this ph transition.
**most of the time, calmag+/LK will buffer the water's ph and you don't have to adjust.

So that is my take...I don't even right it down anymore. I just go with the flow. Sorry about rambling on, but I figured I could go ahead and copy/paste this explanation to my notepad for publication on my hydroponics website.

I invite You to come over to: hygro greenhouse post some hydro question's there, help me build traffic there, and everyone can benefit form the knowledge gained. We can discuss all the hydroponics you want and countless other topics.

We're you growing in rockwool cubes?

xcrispi · #70 (**permalink**) Feb-19-2009, 23:36

No ,
Latewood grew in hydroton .
Just rockwool stays too wet in most situations .
Most folks use hydroton , or hygromite rocks
Crispi

squeakerpie · #71 (**permalink**) May-06-2009, 15:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by latewood

After experimenting for 2 years with Advanced Nutrients/additives...
Botanicare Pure blend Pro/additives...and GH3-part/additives.
I fond this formula works and yields the best; And leaves the roots healthy throughout grow. Goodluck

This should answer a lot of question's you newb's have, and It should save you some money in the longrun.

Since a lot of you get caught up in the Lucas Method. I found this to yield more. However if you have space limitations, just remove the Grow from the formula for smaller plants/yield

START>>>Here is a higher yielding alternative to cut and dried lucas method...
Use grow part in veg 1-1-1 and create high yield bushes=less plants=less trouble, same yield overall.
In flower...use squewed 3-part
.25-1-2 for 1st 4 weeks
weeks 4/5 revert to lucas 0-1-2. Cutting the nitrogen back.
High yield philosphy...Grow bigger, but less...

From 35 gallon rez I dip a 5g bucket and add nutes. I have a turkey baster syringe that sucks up exactly 40 ml if you fill it, So that works perfectly.

5 gallon formula...convert as necessary...

Starting with reverse-osmosis water

Values:
1=8ml,
8ml per gallon
5g=40ml

Veg 1-1-1 = 40-40-40

Flower .25-1-2 = 10-40-80

Finish 0-1-2 = 0-40-80
------------------------------------------------
Veg:40-40-40

add calmag+/3-5ml per gallon **ph5.8 water for topoff's in between nute change... I do not use calmag in nute change solution.
So. I am doing what you are doing except I don't use carboload, I use Liquid Karma/or Seablast/ or some type of Vit-b and sparingly (this stuff cause all kinds of foliage. (Especially under-foliage and I find the too much under growth can causes airflow, and pest problems)

Use LK/Vit-b as I do Calmag+ for topoffs's in between nute change. Alternate topoff solutions each cycle; switching out LiquidKarma for Calmag+ every other week in between your weekly nute change (every 7-10 days).

Example: 3-part, topoff CM+, nute change 3-part, topoff LK, nute change 3-part, topoff CM+...etc, etc.
hope this makes sense.
------------------------------------------------
Flower stage:
Start off with all 3 parts
same value=8ml x's 5 G's=40ml=1 part

Campared to lucas 0-1-2/0-40-80 for flower...
Use .25-1-2/15-40-80 per 5 gallons. You get more mass using the nitrogen at this stage.

It is safe to say this is close to the Advanced Nutrients values, but I simplifiied the recipe by going to GH/lucas values
Actually, they are General Hydroponincs values...right off the bottle. tweak as you need.

In week *4/5 flower. I switch to 0-40-80, and continue alternating CM+/LK topoff process. I topoff at least every other day. this is PK boost time for 8 week finish, I just use clean 0-40-80 until PK transition. so for 9-12 week finish you would hold off on PK/Overdrive, whatever...
Use Overdrive, or high pk formula for a week or 2 prior to final flush.

Flush w/Florakleen.

*week 4/5 of flower. drop ph to 5.4 to make PK nutes more available to plants. increase the ph each week .1... i.e. wk4-ph5.4, wk5 ph5.5, wk6 ph5.6, wk7 ph5.7, wk 8 5.8 finish...Again; If you require longer finishing time, You hold off on this ph transition.
**most of the time, calmag+/LK will buffer the water's ph and you don't have to adjust.

So that is my take...I don't even right it down anymore. I just go with the flow. Sorry about rambling on, but I figured I could go ahead and copy/paste this explanation to my notepad for publication on my hydroponics website.

I invite You to come over to: Hygronomics.com post some hydro question's there, help me build traffic there, and everyone can benefit form the knowledge gained. We can discuss all the hydroponics you want and countless other topics.

WHAT ARE THE P P M ' S!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

elskeetro · #72 (**permalink**) May-07-2009, 15:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by squeakerpie

WHAT ARE THE P P M ' S!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

IT VARIES DEPENDING ON WATER QUALITY AND METHOD.

TRY IT YOURSELF AND LEARN!!!

(and stop using caps...)

Horsemanrocks · #73 (**permalink**) Jul-29-2009, 21:10

Just before Latewood left he changed his bloom formula to one he liked better. Does anybody know if the change was to replace both halves of the bloom protocol (1st 4 weeks, and 2nd four weeks). Or might he have been referring to only 1 of the two halves.

Thanks,
Horsemanrocks

michaelpeg · #74 (**permalink**) Oct-23-2009, 11:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by latewood

After experimenting for 2 years with Advanced Nutrients/additives...
Botanicare Pure blend Pro/additives...and GH3-part/additives.
I fond this formula works and yields the best; And leaves the roots healthy throughout grow. Goodluck

This should answer a lot of question's you newb's have, and It should save you some money in the longrun.

Since a lot of you get caught up in the Lucas Method. I found this to yield more. However if you have space limitations, just remove the Grow from the formula for smaller plants/yield

START>>>Here is a higher yielding alternative to cut and dried lucas method...
Use grow part in veg 1-1-1 and create high yield bushes=less plants=less trouble, same yield overall.
In flower...use squewed 3-part
.25-1-2 for 1st 4 weeks
weeks 4/5 revert to lucas 0-1-2. Cutting the nitrogen back.
High yield philosphy...Grow bigger, but less...

From 35 gallon rez I dip a 5g bucket and add nutes. I have a turkey baster syringe that sucks up exactly 40 ml if you fill it, So that works perfectly.

5 gallon formula...convert as necessary...

Starting with reverse-osmosis water

Values:
1=8ml,
8ml per gallon
5g=40ml

Veg 1-1-1 = 40-40-40

Flower .25-1-2 = 10-40-80

Finish 0-1-2 = 0-40-80
------------------------------------------------
Veg:40-40-40

add calmag+/3-5ml per gallon **ph5.8 water for topoff's in between nute change... I do not use calmag in nute change solution.
So. I am doing what you are doing except I don't use carboload, I use Liquid Karma/or Seablast/ or some type of Vit-b and sparingly (this stuff cause all kinds of foliage. (Especially under-foliage and I find the too much under growth can causes airflow, and pest problems)

Use LK/Vit-b as I do Calmag+ for topoffs's in between nute change. Alternate topoff solutions each cycle; switching out LiquidKarma for Calmag+ every other week in between your weekly nute change (every 7-10 days).

Example: 3-part, topoff CM+, nute change 3-part, topoff LK, nute change 3-part, topoff CM+...etc, etc.
hope this makes sense.
------------------------------------------------
Flower stage:
Start off with all 3 parts
same value=8ml x's 5 G's=40ml=1 part

Campared to lucas 0-1-2/0-40-80 for flower...
Use .25-1-2/15-40-80 per 5 gallons. You get more mass using the nitrogen at this stage.

It is safe to say this is close to the Advanced Nutrients values, but I simplifiied the recipe by going to GH/lucas values
Actually, they are General Hydroponincs values...right off the bottle. tweak as you need.

In week *4/5 flower. I switch to 0-40-80, and continue alternating CM+/LK topoff process. I topoff at least every other day. this is PK boost time for 8 week finish, I just use clean 0-40-80 until PK transition. so for 9-12 week finish you would hold off on PK/Overdrive, whatever...
Use Overdrive, or high pk formula for a week or 2 prior to final flush.

Flush w/Florakleen.

*week 4/5 of flower. drop ph to 5.4 to make PK nutes more available to plants. increase the ph each week .1... i.e. wk4-ph5.4, wk5 ph5.5, wk6 ph5.6, wk7 ph5.7, wk 8 5.8 finish...Again; If you require longer finishing time, You hold off on this ph transition.
**most of the time, calmag+/LK will buffer the water's ph and you don't have to adjust.

So that is my take...I don't even right it down anymore. I just go with the flow. Sorry about rambling on, but I figured I could go ahead and copy/paste this explanation to my notepad for publication on my hydroponics website.

I invite You to come over to: http://hygronomics.com/forum1 post some hydro question's there, help me build traffic there, and everyone can benefit form the knowledge gained. We can discuss all the hydroponics you want and countless other topics.

can someone please direct me to the lucas method? I can't make heads or tails out of this info.

Horsemanrocks · #75 (**permalink**) Oct-25-2009, 22:08

Michael……It’s a long one….like 26 pages or something, but there is a lot of info here.
Cannabis-World - Ask Lucas
It will definitely answer your ppm questions from your other thread. Lucas gives a much clearer explanation than Latewood……that doesn’t mean that I think his method is better, it might even be the key to understanding Latewood better.
I personally had to rewrite Latewood over “in my own language” to create a worksheet that I could work from. If I can find a way to post it here for you I will.
If anybody has a list of usable formats for posting here (pics) that would help. I tried to post something in a JPG2 format here recently, and it didn’t go through.

For the moment I photographed my worksheets…..maybe it’ll come out clear enough to be helpful.

Latewood 001.jpg
Latewood 002.jpg
Latewood 003.jpg

As always…..good luck
HMR

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