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It took some doing.
Ok Michael…..I managed to turn a Word file into a JPG.
My system is DWC…..but with 6 buckets, a controller, and a reservoir feeding the controller through a float valve, so my volume is 30 gallons. You’ll have to convert again to your needs (if I remember…a single bucket). I’ve tried to add notes from the thread to help clarify the info, as it seemed quite scattered to me too (and it appears to many other readers also). Latewood 004.jpg Latewood 005.jpg Latewood 006.jpg I don’t know how far you want to take this study….I personally found the Lucas link to be very informative, and will answer a plethora of questions not covered here. Please let me know if this helps at all. And to those familiar with the Latewood regimen…..if you find errors in my thinking/translation, I welcome your corrections. As always…..good luck HMR
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Remember when they used to use the term “idiot savant”………Well I’m proud to report that I’ve got the first part down. I've always felt that anything worth doing well, is too damn hard.....WeeZard |
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Very little difference
Would I get pretty good results using your feeding schedule with just the 3 part nutes without all the fancy stuff?
Michael, In short….you can expect good results without the “extras”. In long…..there’s very little difference between the two. Quite late in the Lucas thread…..he states (I’m paraphrasing) that the differences between the sources of nitrogen between Grow and Micro might well be a benefit. Grow Grow Marijuana FAQ, Cannabis cultivation - marijuana growing tips & photos Micro Grow Marijuana FAQ, Cannabis cultivation - marijuana growing tips & photos Now I’m no chemist, botanist, nor horticularist. But I am willing to take the advice of many successful growers of both regimens. (Both quite successful.) also do you need to use the cal mag if you are using tap water? also thanks for the link. A judgement call…..my tap ppm (@.7) is about 98 and I have seen calcium deficiencies in my mom’s using ff grow big. Both of these guys differ some on Calmag+ (Lucas believes that GH flora 3 part supplies enough) I’ll probably use a very light dose. My take….Lucas is a fundamentalist, Latewood is more willing to take a chance. And of course….simpler is easier to understand. Expect the best, HMR
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Remember when they used to use the term “idiot savant”………Well I’m proud to report that I’ve got the first part down. I've always felt that anything worth doing well, is too damn hard.....WeeZard |
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Hell if I know!
what is the best way to find out what kind of shape your tap water is in?? I get the yearly water report from the area I live in but it doesnt make a bit of sence to me whatsoever.
I hear that!......and on top of that if you pay for an expensive water analysis, what information do you compare that to. I went to the water district requesting more information under the guise of wanting more information to make “home brew”. They couldn’t provide any more info than that yearly report. But if they had…I’d be in the same boat as you….what to do with it. They did say that they used chlorine (not chloramines) that’s helpful as far as determining the duration of the effect. My water report doesn’t even mention Calcium or Magnesium. Unless you school yourself not only in water analysis….but what your own grow requirements are, I guess all you can do is let the grow tell you. I did copy this quote from Weedhound….. Interestingly.....according to my hydro man.....its VERY hard to OD on CalMag. If your leaves are going all dark and curly that just plain sounds like overnute to me. I sat down the other day and had a fair discussion on the use of CalMag with my hydro guy.....i'll be using it MORE these days instead of less. Just a thought I'm tossing in..... Now Lucas thinks that GH Flora 3-part supplies all the cal/mag that you’re gonna need. (and he doesn’t do change-outs) In fairness though he does continue to add Micro and Bloom in top-offs. But Latewood (who refreshes more often) adds Calmag+ to replace the Calcium “used up in the 3-part”. Seems conflicting to me. To sum it up…..Hell if I know! I suppose that your grow will speak to you….Jus gotta listen. With luck some water specialist type will school us both. HMR
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Remember when they used to use the term “idiot savant”………Well I’m proud to report that I’ve got the first part down. I've always felt that anything worth doing well, is too damn hard.....WeeZard |
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Ok Michael…let’s try this
Your ppm meter doesn’t know squat about ppm. It only makes an approximation at ppm by measuring EC (electrical conductivity).
It then takes it’s EC figure and converts that to ppm with a factor of .5 or .7 to estimate ppm. Note: EC is exactly the same on all meters. (it’s a baseline to work from) So if you want to communicate ppm then you have to consider the conversion factor. Example: EC= 2100 2100 X .7 = 1470 2100 X .5 + 1050 Two very different conclusions. So if anybody posts ppm without including their conversion factor, well then you have nothing to work with (to compare). Let’s say that your meter converts at .7 and another posts ppm at a .5 conversion factor. Then you have to take (their ppm) X (the recriprocal of .5 (2.0)) to learn the EC of their solution. Example: Ppm 1050 (@.5) X 2 = 2100 2100 x .7 = 1470 So their 1050 ppm @.5 equals 1470 ppm @ .7 to you If the situation was reversed….the reciprocal of .7 is 1.4285 To find the conversion factor of your meter (if you have an EC function) Simply measure any solution for EC…then measure for ppm to see which conversion factor it uses. If not check the instructions. My meter allows either conversion factor (I choose) I chose .7 because it seems to be a little more commonly used. Let me know if this helps HMR
__________________
Remember when they used to use the term “idiot savant”………Well I’m proud to report that I’ve got the first part down. I've always felt that anything worth doing well, is too damn hard.....WeeZard |
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