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  #126 (permalink)  
Old Mar-05-2008, 21:25
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lol...wow guys, opi, physics, thanks for igonring my question...j/k
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  #127 (permalink)  
Old Mar-06-2008, 00:06
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lol...wow guys, opi, physics, thanks for igonring my question...j/k
whiskeytango
sorry about that wiskey....will have a definate ratio tomorrow afternoon. I hope its perfected tomorrow (well theres always room for improvement).....
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  #128 (permalink)  
Old Mar-06-2008, 01:38
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ratio schmatio

Copied this from somewhere.

…This is why NASA's plant physiologists started to work with light emitting diodes (blue and red) to grow salad plants such as lettuce and radishes. The researchers found our that blue and red light is essential for plant growth and, in general, a percentage of 8% blue LEDs and 92% red LEDs, both with the same frequency and relative intensity per LED, are enough for a harmonious evolution.
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  #129 (permalink)  
Old Mar-06-2008, 01:45
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Wow, what a thread on the LED subject... I have been getting closer to pulling the trigger on some of the panels for a cloning vegging area that I assume are coming out of China, found them on ebay. No confidence in flowering density results yet.

I am going to hang on and see where this goes.....

Go noles, we make the 4 hour drive to Talleywhackey for football season, lot 10 near Bert Reynolds hall.
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  #130 (permalink)  
Old Mar-06-2008, 14:51
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woodyboy, if you are just using them for cloning and vegging you could have all blue. A little red as well would be better, but not really needed for vegging. Budding is the most important, but LEDs have nearly always done fine for vegging. I have a hard time understanding why array makers are expecting people to use the same light for veg as you do for bud. During at least one of the stages the lighting is going to be inefficient. Blue for veg, red for bud.
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old Mar-06-2008, 20:12
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Well this is what I was thinking a near perfect LED array should have (good,bad???):

Vegetation Flowering
420-10%---420-2%
440-10%---440-3%
460-20%---460-7%
465-20%---465-8%
530-5%----530-5%
590-5%----590-5%
625-10%--- 625-10%
645-10%---645-25%
660-5%----660-30%
735-5%----735-5%
2:1 B:R----7:2 R:B


And the procyons have:
450nm-29%
635nm-71%
7:3 R:B

So I think you should supplement your procyons with every color on that list . The good thing however is since you already have alot of light from your 3 procyons you don't have to add alot of LEDs. So even though you'll have to add alot more wavelengths, you will have to supplement less.

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Originally Posted by hydrorascal View Post
physicsnole great work on the pricing of your array.
you have no idea how long it took me to sit down and compare all the different LED companies and wattages and output....But glad im able to help!
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  #132 (permalink)  
Old Mar-06-2008, 20:37
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tried to give you more rep physics, thanks...so you dont think im good on blue?..and just add some reds, maybe 660? love the list thought, got it copied into my grow files so i can start getting stuff on order...should i use PCV board? what kind of mounting shoud i use? aluminum?

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to high, more later...lol

may put my yahoo addy up later, so we can better communicate about this
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old Mar-06-2008, 21:15
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so you dont think im good on blue?..and just add some reds, maybe 660?
Well honestly I think your good in the blue, I mean just look at your plants...they look great but every color in that list is needed for a specific function. So the more colors you have the "better" your yield should be.

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should i use PCV board? what kind of mounting shoud i use? aluminum?
Do you mean PCB board? And aluminum transfers heat well...maybe a thought?

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  #134 (permalink)  
Old Mar-06-2008, 21:34
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Originally Posted by woodyboy View Post
Wow, what a thread on the LED subject... I have been getting closer to pulling the trigger on some of the panels for a cloning vegging area that I assume are coming out of China, found them on ebay. No confidence in flowering density results yet.

I am going to hang on and see where this goes.....

Go noles, we make the 4 hour drive to Talleywhackey for football season, lot 10 near Bert Reynolds hall.
You might want to check out maspino's china panel grow @ LED Grow: 1st grow, 56W max, Northern Lights

IMHO if you want a clone/veg light and have the cash, buy a procyon 100. pictures are really worth much more than a thousand words

Db
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"Boy, the next words outta your mouth better be some brilliant Mark Twain shit...cause it is definitely getting chiseled on your tombstone"-Otis Driftwood
LED growing- An instructional grow log
Episode 3...Revenge of the LED
Episode 4: The Clone Colonies

Last edited by SnSstealth; Mar-06-2008 at 21:38.
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  #135 (permalink)  
Old Mar-07-2008, 15:29
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Originally Posted by physicsnole View Post
you have no idea how long it took me to sit down and compare all the different LED companies and wattages and output....
Well if it makes you feel any better, I have a very good idea. We're talking actual complete days of sitting in front of the computer and scratching the head. No doubt things would go faster if I didn't smoke at the same time, but screw that noise. And wattages and output are but a few of the things to compare. Damn I'm sick of it and I just want to build something.

About your ratios, looking pretty good but I think I would bump up the 465 in veg to about 35%, and the 660 in bud to somewhere around 50%. IMO these are the most important colors by far, as long as you are designing an array for higher plants in general. If you are designing it specifically for weed than maybe not so much 465, and more 430. Don't know for sure. Still waiting on a scan or at least a photo of that damn chart in March High Times.
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  #136 (permalink)  
Old Mar-07-2008, 15:34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by physicsnole View Post
Do you mean PCB board? And aluminum transfers heat well...maybe a thought?
One of the many things to consider when ordering LEDs. I've thought of both and still don't know what to do. How you mount depends a great deal on what type LED you buy. I think those 1 watters mounted on a bolt would be real nice to just screw into some aluminum, but they aren't available in enough colors.
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  #137 (permalink)  
Old Mar-07-2008, 15:43
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Originally Posted by physicsnole View Post
I'm not saying 5mm LED's are great but I was planning on making a 5mm array with drivers and all....I designed the circuit board and everything with a computer program. Ill try to load pics. I can give you files if you want to explore that path.
Did anything ever become of this? I would be interested in getting in on that action. Any chance you could post that or rep me with your email address (can't rep you right now)?
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  #138 (permalink)  
Old Mar-07-2008, 16:04
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Originally Posted by physicsnole View Post
And the procyons have:
450nm-29%
635nm-71%
7:3 R:B
I find it interesting that they are using 450. According to my charts that's about in the middle of the death zone for chlorophyll absorption or activity for vegging. 440 and 465 are the veg peaks on my graphs, and there is a drastic dip between the 2. Assuming my charts are correct for a second, growth should almost double if the other 2 were used in place of the 450 and produced about the same brightness total. Assuming SnS's plants are abnormally bushy, why? I guess either (1) my charts are wrong for weed, or (2)an array with proper wavelengths would do even better than the procyons, at least in veg., or (3)it's because all LED's emit in a spectrum believe it or not, and the plants are still getting some small amount of 440 and 465. Just bouncing ideas here, hope y'all don't mind.
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old Mar-08-2008, 15:57
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led lights

these lights do work. try this site they explain everything ledlights4less.com
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old Mar-08-2008, 16:10
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Dad gummit, why can't there be a constant for measuring the intensity for LEDs? How the heck can I compare milliwatts with lumens or candela? I've got a rough idea of how bright something like 50 millicandel is, but how bright is something like 50 milliwatts? What, are they crazy? A watt is not a unit of light measurement. Anyone want to tackle that one? It's not in a search engine that I could find.


There are a few oddities and nothing standard about LED specifications. Some manufacturers provide output in candela, others in lumens or milliwatts. The lumen is a photometric measure, milliwatts are radiometric, and candela measures maximum intensity or brightness. But candela is a subjective, murky unit. For instance, suppose all the light from a source is focused down to a narrow beam. This doesn't change the actual light output or the number of photons, but the apparent brightness has increased. The lumen/watt, the SI unit commonly used for measuring the total amount of light emitted by a light source per energy input, doesn't accurately reflect true efficiency. LEDs are directional light sources and emit little or no spherical light. But the lumen/watt unit takes into account all light emissions from a light source, including spherical, and not just what is actually accomplishing the required illumination task.
Lighting the 21st century

Please help.
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  #141 (permalink)  
Old Mar-08-2008, 16:17
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Originally Posted by seanyb View Post
these lights do work. try this site they explain everything ledlights4less.com
I couldn't find any explanation of why LEDs work. Am I missing something? They certainly don't explain everything. Thanks for contributing, but I couldn't find any help there.
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  #142 (permalink)  
Old Mar-08-2008, 16:34
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im with ya on the measuring of the light opie...100,000Lm from a 1k HPS right? 10000 out of the procton at 6 in...so what the fuck, we need a measurement not for our eyes, but for the plants absorbtion...i too have the days of cross-eyedness, getting high reading this shit...imagine how much me and doughboy have read before we even got the procyons...lol...still gotta learn more though...


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Old Mar-09-2008, 07:34
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