i will check out my 400w bi-spectrum i heard it is only 360w but i will see for myself.
i will check out my 400w bi-spectrum i heard it is only 360w but i will see for myself.
very impressive results with my 100 watt induction for clone and veg with the 400 watt inda-gro lights. Plasma really doesn't have an edge over induction horticulture lamps.
I know that if I was touting them as much as you I'd be showing pics as proof. That would really help to sell the product.
Does anyone know where i can reliably get an induction light that is proven to be close to the production of a 400w HID?!?!?
No one has shown any results from growing with induction.
I put a kill-a-watt on my 120w induction & 250w HPS (magnetic ballast). They apparently consumed 110w & 350w respectively.
I'm going to run a test with 120w induction + 23w T5HO vs. the 250w HPS.
I wanted to do a 2:1 power comparison but it'll be more like 2.5:1 comparison.
Last edited by calbunn; Oct-21-2010 at 15:50.
calbun do you use the 400w as a 1-for-1 replacement with your 1000w HPS?
Or would you use something like 3 inductions for every 2 HPSs?
I'm not a botanist but I play one on the internet!
All posts by this user should be considered fictional and are for entertainment use only.
In the '60's, people took acid to make the world weird. Now the world is weird and people take Prozac to make it normal.
If any posts made by this user are considered offensive please un-read them
So the jury still out or has someone out there put a room to head and can show us all some pics
My friend thinks the induction won't even yield 1/3 as much as the HPS. Personally I expect to yield 2/3 or 3/4 as much. I guess we'll see once the show is on the road!
Mland brand and super grow unbranded look the same is the unbranded super grow the same lamp, all these things look great as we all know the big question is do they have enough power to penetrate deep enough to produce good big bud.So the site that sells the Mland is the same one that sells the LEDS and well I don't like em .
What about the INDA-gro is this the same concept as the others how dose it compare
Thanks so far All your ideas have been helpfull
Here is a link to our a grow with a Parmax EFDL 200 watter 2700K YouTube - Inductiongrow this is at 5 weeks of flower but you can follow his other post from the beginning. I have spent the last few months figuring out a couple of serious issues with induction lights. First the ballast were overheating and causing the lights to flicker after about 6 hours of operation. This eventually blew the ballast. the second issue was the bulb would lose output to about half brightness after a few hours of operation but was fine when it cooled down. Well after countless hours we finnally addressed the issues and had our manufacturer fix the problems according to our directions.(wasn't easy with a language barrier!!)
Since then we noticed a few new importers introduced a new induction light called the bispectrum or super grow light. The bispectrum light is a combonation of two different phosphours to produce one half of the bulb in 2700K and the other half with the dreaded purple color spectrum. I have attached a copy of our 300 watt spectral distribution test along with the bispectrum spectral test. At first you are going to be blown away by the spectral graph of the bispectrum test, but if you continue to read the report, you will find that the luminous efficiency is only 10.4 lumins/watt (although resellers are quoting 40 lumins/watt) sure the spectrum looks great on both red and blue scale but light penatration is a big issue with these lights. If you compare it to the 2700K 300 watt test you will see that the light efficiency is much better at 81 lumins/ watt and punching out over 33000 lumins. With a bit of tweaking , we believe we can get the 300 watt 2700K induction light to come close to 800 watts of HPS. If you read the 2700K test you will see that this light peaks at 615nM and peaters off in the far red. This is very close to the spectral distribution of HPS except the HPS has more in the green and yellow range and also lacks in the far red. My idea is to suppliment the missing wavelengths with LEDs. We are going to build a 300 watt EFDL with built in supplimental led's. I'm hoping to add about 50 watts of led.
There are a lot of sceptics out there for these lights so what i'm going to do is i am going to give this light to a lucky cadidate to do a nonbias grow journal anyone interested? We already know our 300 watt EFDL 2700K works and keeps up to 600 watts of LED and HPS but i'm confident the added spectrum will knock this light out of the park!
I'm still trying to source a supplier of LED's so i should have this light ready in about a month.
I'm having troubles loading the bispectrum test it seems too large a file i will try to shrink it
Thanks for that info bubbas. Looks like a great job your doing .In your opinion the "super grow" Light(Mland) would not work as well as yours.and would you say the INDA-Gro is much the same as what you are using.
I can't say for sure the new and improved bispectrums won't work as well as standard spectrum bulbs but their specifications sure point in that direction. I testd the first generation all purple lights and they were terrible. They like first gen LED's vegged well but fell flat on the flowering so to improve it they made half the bulb in 2700K. I don't have a lot of info on the inda gro. i see they have 5250K. This color is a full spectrum color that has blue and red spectrum in it however more in the visible range of green and yellow light and less red but decent blue. I would suggest to ask them for a spectral power distribution test data. Their grow light fixture does look better than the Mland as there is no glass and the ballast is out in the open. The mland fixture is actually a tunnel lamp fixture. It has the ballast fully enclosed within the fixture and a piece of glass to protect the bulb. It's IP68 which means its waterproof but why? are we growing outdoors? It only causes overheating issues. We had overheating issues even without glass and our ballast was not enclosed so having it IP68 would make overheating matters worse.Don't get me wrong, i'm not saying others are shit so we can sell more of ours but we don't want disappointed growers who spent a lot of cash for these lights and have them perform poorly and in return telling the world that induction lights are crap. We know they work and are in the next stage of improving them to work even better than any other grow light out there.
We look at HPS and MH lights like old 60's muscle cars, Lots of HP and gobbled up fuel like there was no tommorow. LED's and induction lights are like the new gen of muscle cars more hp but sips fuel. Did you know that Hyundai's sport coupe is quicker than almost all the 60's and 70's muscle cars but still gets 30MPG that's technology!!
Well I for one am interested in these lights. Granted the initial startup cost is higher than HID but considering that you don't have the heat generated you get with HPS and the bulbs last far longer in the long run it is actually comparable to HPS. I have been looking at the inductionlamps.com 500w light in 2700k and after adding the cost of a ballast, hood, bulb (every 8 months to a year), hood cooling fan, tubing, squirrel cage etc of a 1000w HPS they are only a couple hundred more, and that is if I get the cheap ballast instead of the digital.
I would like to use a Aquamist system with it so the penetration isn't as much of an issue since they are so short in that table but of course a side by side, even with an HPS at the same watt as the induction, in an actual grow would be the clincher for me. I'm not trying to save power but heat and the necessity of venting heat. It would be a pain to set that up in my home with all the tubing and necessity of tearing apart my vent system to reach the outdoors from my basement, once my state goes medical.
IMHO the best light is still a true sulphur plasma from plasma-i but they aren't retail yet and cost WAYYYY too much. That full spectrum would be amazing though.
Last edited by jstepp590; Oct-27-2010 at 13:27.
That gives me a better perspective on things and I'll bet your right, these "Mland" and I presume "Super grow" that look the same and have the same marketing blurb (water proof ? lasts for a human life time etc etc ) if it sounds to good to be true it probably is , Are made for another purpose ,not growing heads indoors.
It surprises me that there is not more people out there absolutely raving about these super grow lights (looks the same as Mland) if they really worked I'm in OZ and we only just got them here but there bin around for a while in America
For now I'm just using the inda-gro 100 watters for cloning and veg. I like them and would certainly recommend them over the other energy efficient fixture/lamp combination's I've tried. But I'm no expert. What I've learned about induction I picked up from forums like this and the inda-gro site.
I would be very much interested in testing out your induction lighting, I'm currently using a 400 watt med halide....with a broad spectrum band width.
in return I will give a full in-depth analysis of the products performance for the privilege of testing the system. thanks for the opportunity:Chris
Try calling Inda-Gro and ask for Darryl. They may have a way of doing that for you but you'll never know unless you ask. They do rock though.
I've read almost half of this thread. These are my personal opinions about these lights. If i say anything wrong, please correct me.
I don't know much about LED and HPS, i know only CFL. I'll just compare with CFL.
The comparison based on 5 years continuously flowering and for one plant only! In reality it may make much more difference.
First of all they're very expensive! No other thoughts at all
Yes they have longlife like 25 years in 12/12 flowering. 5 years warranty.
Lets say i bought a 200W around $450 plus delivery ($100) on ebay. I'm saying it because first of all i must look my ability to buy these. Thats the only source right now i could find cheapest.
I can also buy myself 8x 23w (184W in total) 2500k cfl's for $35 only, from a store here 30 mins from home. Not those cheap chinese things. They're Osram and they have specific spectrums. I also have cheapest chinese bulbs, one is pink and the other one is orange look. I don't have time to waste on unknown pink or orange 2700k's (?). If anyone has and if they work well that'll save much more money.
Do CFL's only have 6 months? After 6 months needs to be replaced? No problem. This makes 70$ per year and 350$ for 5 years. $200 saved! (By the way god knows what will happen in 5 years. There were no grow leds 2 years ago for example. No one can guarantee what will happen to you tomorrow. So putting half thousand bucks on a lamp for long term (specially for 25 years?) didn't seem too clever to me.)
All say CFL's are hot. Yes they are, 2 computer fan is enough to cool them down ($5).Thats what i do. If you still say too hot, there are some other options such as two pins CFL's. They work as cool as these lights (Writing 25C on Osram's website).Outputs 85lm/w. I don't know exact prices of those (bulb+ballast) but i must say if you buy, in 5 years they'll average self ballasted CFL's.
Lets continue the comparison with self ballasted CFL's.
8x23w CFL :12000lm approx. Well enough for a plant. Average light supply for every side of the plant.
1x200w Ind:9000lm, some other sources say 1600lm but it depends on spectrum i guess. 9000lm looks enough for a plant. "No supplemental lights needed" said. But tests showed, results were far from HPS. Only recommended with supplemental CFL's for better results??? One 4x23W used here. That makes 300W/14800lm in total. Well enough for a plant but what is the point of using these lights then? This i'm saying here also same for the LED's.
And here are the graphics. What makes this lights more useful (%96) for plants?
HPS Induction 2700k CFL
I'm a simple CFL user. I don't understand much on terms and I don't want to obstacle anyone specially in business. I just want to run HPS but my room will not let me to do. So I interested any kind of other alternatives but reasonable. I will not fly to the moon with these lamps. If i fly, that will be only self flying and will be fair enough
Stay in peace
If I couldn't go HID lighting?....I would go High Output T5's or PL-L fluorescent tubes.So I interested any kind of other alternatives but reasonable. I will not fly to the moon with these lamps. If i fly, that will be only self flying and will be fair enough
L type fluorescent tubes
Last edited by Dutch Pimp; Dec-06-2010 at 10:26.