I'm new to this and plants need help!!!

Discussion in 'Basic Growing' started by buckiemc.boing, Mar 3, 2016.

  1. buckiemc.boing

    buckiemc.boing Registered+

    20160301_154623.jpg 20160301_154617.jpg 20160301_154610.jpg 20160301_154555.jpg 20160215_213313.jpg 20160301_154623.jpg 20160301_154623.jpg 20160301_154617.jpg 20160215_213313.jpg hello world,
    like a post says im new to growing in soil.
    So on Tuesday I noticed some yellowish spots on some leaves, and they fill dry and brittle. I watered on Monday with 1/2 straight nats and cal mag. I don't know what's going on and why any tips would help
    So here's what going on
    I got 3 plants started 1st. 2/1/16 and #2,3 on 2/7/16
    in a small cabinet 3'×3'×18"
    8× 23w cfl's
    120 cfm exhaust fan
    6" clip fan
    fox farms OF soil
    3gal smart pots
     
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  2. redtails

    redtails Registered+

    Do you check or adjust your pH before you water?
     
  3. buckiemc.boing

    buckiemc.boing Registered+

    Red,
    I didn't I was in a rush before work, and used a new brand of RO water. Going to check the ph today..
     
  4. redtails

    redtails Registered+

    RO is neutral, once FF is added it should go down some. If you let it sit a bit after you mix it up it'll come back up and settle. Check and make sure it's just slightly acidic(6.3-6.8). I know my plants have gotten shocked from low pH quite a few times as I'm lazy sometimes lol.

    It's all about healthy roots and soil. Keep them happy and your plants will show it.
     
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  5. buckiemc.boing

    buckiemc.boing Registered+

    Just checked the ph it's in between 6.3-6.8 on ro water.
    I think I'm going to give them 2 litters of water, with 2.5 MLS of cal mag.
    Skip nats till next week starting to see the claw:(
    I also moved the light up 2"
     
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  6. buckiemc.boing

    buckiemc.boing Registered+

    I put my Lil guys under their net.
    Next picture 10 day later.
    next time I'm only doing 1 plant
     

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  7. MDFinest

    MDFinest Registered+

    Have you seen any bugs/pests in there?
     
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  8. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    RO water has a pH slightly below neutral- in the high 6's- due to carbonic acid from dissolved atmospheric CO2 that will always be present. But don't worry, the ionic strength is REALLY low and the pH of pure RO or DI water is virtually meaningless. In fact, for an inexpensive pH meter to get an accurate reading on it at all is a good sign your meter is not junk!!! It's the pH AFTER you add your calmag, or your calmag plus nutes, that is important. You've added a bunch of salts that the pH meter can 'see' and your numbers now mean something.
    Those very few and scattered brown patches, placed inconsistently in no particular pattern here and there, make me think physical damage, not a nutrient problem. Like you splashed a few drops of ferts, or left water droplets on your leaves that made a little magnifying glass and burned the tissue underneath. It DOES look like you might start seeing the first signs of Mg def or lock out the way some of the leaf tips are starting to have raised slightly paler patches on them. Do you let your soil dry out between waterings? Not like desert dry, but so the pots feel light. If it is TOO wet all the time, that will give you problems.
    You can pre-mix a couple gallons of RO plus CalMAg and then pH adjust it so that if you are in a rush you can just grab that for a quick plant pick me up.
    But next time your plants are ready for a drink, DO give them a good drench with pure RO and measure what comes out the bottoms. That pH matters a lot! It shows you what the soil environment is like. The pure RO water will pick up the pH of the soil and fertilizer salts and carry them right out the bottom of the pot. Collect the liquid in a very clean container so it doesn't get contaminated and give a false reading. So if it comes out at 6.0, make up a solution of nutes and calmag and adjust it just over 7, and water after the pH checking flush with that solution to bring the soil in the pot back in the range you want.
    Don't be discouraged; if you are growing any plants at all you might as well grow enough to use up the light you have. They do look very nice and fat and low.
    Just a question- why did you decide to use RO to begin with, is your tap water a hot mess?
     
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  9. buckiemc.boing

    buckiemc.boing Registered+

    I live in california my tap water is really hard and ph sucks! I checked the runoffs ph it was 6.0, think that's too low? Flushed with 10 gal. Of 6.5ph ro water plants started showing the claw on the old leafs. Don't know when to feed them nats next any tips??
     

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  10. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    If your soil runoff is that low you want to flush a little ABOVE neutral, then give them a dilute feeding of RO + CalMAg + 1/2 strength ferts adjusted to 6.8-7 (remember, your soil was too low so err a little bit on the higher side for the first feeding). Then just go back to feeding at 6.8 next time they need it. That sucks about your water being hard.
    Also remember that the pH of RO water is so weak that you should test AFTER you add your calmag.
    Careful not to overwater them. I know this sounds like contradictory advice when I'm suggesting a flush-n-feed, but overwatering can make the symptoms of pH problems worse, so be certain to let them dry out a bit in between.
     
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  11. buckiemc.boing

    buckiemc.boing Registered+

    Too my surprise she was dry the following day. Wow they drink a lot of water
     
  12. buckiemc.boing

    buckiemc.boing Registered+

    I read somewhere not to add cal-mag during flowering? I've been using advance nutrients grow and bloom plus cal-mag. Never mixed over 3/4 straight with the grow part. Just started flowering about a week ago only at 1/4 straight with no cal so far. I'm using FFOS with ro water, so should I still use cal-mag?
    thanks for the help stinky:rastasmoker::S5::hippy::bookworm:
     
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  13. GaGrown

    GaGrown Registered+

    I would mention molasses..But that's another thing even if it does replace use'n cal-mag.. Stiny knows what's she's say'n! Jess say'n..lol
     
  14. buckiemc.boing

    buckiemc.boing Registered+

    I've been reading about molasses gagrown. Think my next grow will be an organic one.
     
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  15. emilya

    emilya Future Dispensary Owner

    There are huge needs for magnesium in our plants all throughout the grow. Whoever told you not to use calmag during flower, was simply wrong. Especially if you are using RO water, you need to add calmag. Even in my organic grow, I add General Organics CalMag in every tea, even knowing that there is dolomite lime and epsom salts cooked into my soil with plenty of slow release calcium and magnesium. Having it readily available in a usable form is very beneficial to the plants, all during the grow.

    Molasses is also a wonderful thing and I am finding that it is essential in an organic grow. The molasses is not so much for the plants other than some of its trace minerals, but it is mostly to feed the microbeasties that are hard at work in an organic garden. We feed the microherd, they feed the plants. I am now on my second run growing organically in a super soil amended garden. It is a totally different way of growing than just buying nutes and mixing them up, and a lot more hands on. If you are planning a truly organic grow next time, you need to be assembling and "cooking" your soil now. You should also get a good air pump so you will be able to make a proper AACT. Expect to spend a lot at first to get going, building soil, buying amendments... but then the costs go down dramatically as you never again need to buy large amounts of soil or expensive jugs of commercial nutrients. I still buy plenty of things commercially, earth worm castings, 5-5-5 organic fertilizer, kelp meal, liquid fish, ... but I buy less of this stuff than ever before, and it goes much further when I make up my teas. Its a big step and a steep learning curve going organic... and for some reason, the information on getting going with it seems to be clouded in mystery. It is probably because the nutrient companies would go out of business if we all figured this out.
     
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  16. buckiemc.boing

    buckiemc.boing Registered+

    About 15 days into flowering.
     

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  17. gardenermendo

    gardenermendo Registered+

    Heck, your plants look pretty good to me, from the first pictures you posted. They're so much better than many who come here with problems. One doesn't have to have 'perfect' plants. Cannabis is tough, it'll do just fine.
     
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  18. buckiemc.boing

    buckiemc.boing Registered+

    Thanks mendo
     
  19. TheHouseCoatguy

    TheHouseCoatguy Registered

    high there
    I don't see a whole lot wrong .they are a nice green.if you are in soil I'm not sure why you are adding anything.so many do this when they start growing .the thought process is usually... fertilizer makes them grow so the more fertilizer the better .chances are you throw the chemistry of the medium out of wack.
    I would get a bucket of phd water 3 to 4 times the volume of medium. flush the plant and catch the run off and retest ph and ppms. let the plant tell you if it needs food
    the plant wont be such a vibrant green .not a big deal and easily remedied .when you over fert damage is done. you will learn so much more if you listen and watch the plants.it may sound weird to listen to them but you will see small changes and learn how they behave to different stimuli .ie after watering , before watering,co2 ect. if you insist on your ferts keep a control plant that just gets water. if you start to see red streaking in the stalks its usually a indicator to a wacked ph.the streaks are a deficiency symptom but 9 times out 0f 10 the ph was the fix.if you start adding things in soil other water and in hydro A/B when shit goes sideways you will be in the same spot you are now.not sure what to blame.
    good intentions have fucked up more plants than anything else by far.by that I mean overwatering and over fertilizing most common mistakes.i would sudgest you starve your plants of water (when you will be there)and ferts to see the signs and to get a read on them .it really helps when you can just pick it up to gauge how much water is left.but support cribbing usually prevents that, good thing a moisture gauge works too 8)
    they really look ok to me .I don't see any tip burn or curl so it hasn't gone to sideways if at all if you ask me .they can never get to much air or light .keep on keep on .if you ask me replicate a method that it proven.once you have done that begin to develop your own style .keep it simple . IMO someone just learning tennis doesn't need a prince racket.some just learning to grow doesn't need additives .
    be good or good at it
    PEACE
     
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  20. buckiemc.boing

    buckiemc.boing Registered+

    Thanks for the helpful tips and advice Coatguy. I will give her a good flush and see what happens:thumbsup:. When I first posted this for help my ph was hella out of wack. Plus my room got a little bit colder then I wanted.
     

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