Male / Female ID....Hope I did this right ???

Discussion in 'Growing Information' started by Buds Buddy, Aug 10, 2018 at 10:58 AM.

  1. Buds Buddy

    Buds Buddy Registered+

    Well my plants are all 3 weeks into Veg & about 14" - 20" tall. I want to find out if they are male or female so I took some clippings that had at least 3 nodes on them & stuck each one in it's own plastic cup in about 1" of water pH 6.5. Then I put them about 6" away from my T-5 & CFL's on a 12 / 12 cycle.
    Did I do it right ? If I did...about how long till they will show sex signs ?
    This is my 1st go at this so any tips on it are very welcome. Thanx !!!
     
  2. Weezard

    Weezard Registered+

    I usually put the cuts in dim light with a short night until they root. Then I flip to 12:12.
    That way. I can grow out the females and cull any males I don't need pollen from.
    Gives me a head start on the next crop and a taste of what the donor is going to finish like.
    But, your method may be faster if all you want is a sex check.
    I do suggest affixing the labels to the plants not the containers. Otherwise, things can get swapped and mislabeled too easily.

    Carry on.
    Weeze
     
  3. Buds Buddy

    Buds Buddy Registered+

    So you revert the females back to veg after having them in flower to check sex ? Doesn't it take a lot longer to get them to go back to the veg cycle ? I've read it can be done; but it took longer . I guess the way I'm doing it is almost the same as cloning except for the light cycle & a few minor details. But I'm not trying to clone any of these trimmings. Just want to identify sex & weed out the males to make more room. Yes....it's getting quite full in there & only 1/2 way through veg so need to make some room. If things work out the way they look I'm going to be one happy camper. Out of 24 plants only 8 are tall with more spread apart inter-nodes & 16 are smaller & bushier.
    I didn't label the plants. I numbered the cups 1 - 24 & the pots I did the same so I can match the numbers.
    Would you happen to know if any one has posted pics of sexing cuttings like I'm doing ? Sure would like to see some.
     
  4. Weezard

    Weezard Registered+

    Um, no. Once they show sex, I let them finish.
    They finish small, yes, but I only need a few grams to test for taste and effect, yah?
    And if I keep a male, I only need a small puff of pollen to make hundreds of seeds.
    Did this with a Mazar cross a few years back. When the cut flowered, it smelled like excrement.
    Really nasty!
    Saved me from wasting anymore time/Watts on the mom.
    Her space was freed up for a strain that I liked the scent of.

    I might have a picture or two. Lemme go look,
    Gack! What a mess. I need to get my photos organized. Here's a few flower shots;
    nuts.jpg female preflower.jpg shemale.JPG
     
  5. Buds Buddy

    Buds Buddy Registered+

    Hmmm, So I can get a few grams off these cuttings if I put them in soil after they root ? That sounds awesome !!! Never would of thought you could get that much.
    One other question. Do I really need to use 2700 K CFL's to do this or can I get away with the 6500 k on a 12 / 12 cycle ? I have plenty of 2700 K CFL's . Just not enough fixtures for the bulbs since they are all in the 28 watt range. Right now I have the 2 foot - 4 Bulb T-5 & 4 - Corner CFL lights that are 6500 K 85 watt each on them.
    Will this work ?
     
  6. Buds Buddy

    Buds Buddy Registered+

    Thanks for the pics...Just what I wanted to see to know what to expect.
     
  7. Weezard

    Weezard Registered+

    Photoperiodism Is time dependent.
    So, it's more about duration than temperature.
    Any thing from 2700K to 6000K will do.

    With some heavily Sativa hybrids, 12:12 can take a long time to start flower. If you have skinny leaves ,it's best to go 13:11 or even 14:10 to get it started.

    The lower temp light, just might get you another ten percent in bud weight. But with small quantities it does not give much return on the cost of switching lights.
    Blue light alone will flip the flower switch, but it's red light that does all the "heavy lifting".

    Aloha,
    Weeze
     
  8. Buds Buddy

    Buds Buddy Registered+

    Good to know. A few of the cuttings look like somethings starting to grow at the nodes but so small I can't tell anything yet. Probably another week to 10 days. I noticed most the water in the cups disappeared so I added fresh water tonight.
     
  9. Weezard

    Weezard Registered+

    Best to change the water daily.
    You don't want it to go stagnant.
    I use tap water from an aerated faucet.
    Aerated because it stays "fresh" longer, and tap water because the Chloramine keeps anaerobic bacteria at bay. When I first started I tried to use distilled water. It sucked the life out of the cutting through osmotic pressure. Same was true of rain water.
    2 lings 6 clones.JPG

    My tap water runs ~120 ppm of dissolved solids. That gives new roots something to seek.
    The other "secret" to cloning is low light.
    With too much light, they try to transpire.
    Without roots to replace the lost water the transpiration effort desiccates the cuttings.
    Dim light, normal to slightly warm temps, and fresh water daily, will give you roots in a week or two.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2018 at 12:18 PM
  10. Buds Buddy

    Buds Buddy Registered+

    Do you pH your tap water ? I've been using tap...pH to 6.5. I have about 10 - 23 watt 2700 K CFL Bulbs I could change out to if that would do ??? Right now it's bright in there. But the cuttings are starting to show something at the nodes ... can't tell what though.
     
  11. Buds Buddy

    Buds Buddy Registered+

    OK... I found 4 - 45 watt 2700 K Soft White Bulbs I never used & changed out the 85 watt 6500 K corner lights with them. I also turned off 2 of the 4 lights in the T-5. It almost looks like an HPS light in there now. Think this will be better ?
    Also changed all the water in the cups. Are the stems suppose to start getting hard & stiff ? Seems that the part of the stem not in the water is getting stiff.
    Again, Thanks for the advice....I'm really learning a lot from you.
     
  12. Weezard

    Weezard Registered+

    Couple more tips.
    When taking cuts, use a very sharp, clean, blade and cut at an angle. Have a glass of water ready and place the cuts in it immediately after the cut. Never let them get "floppy".
    And give them a little "swish when you drop them in to clear any air bubbles from the cut surface.
    If the stems stay turgid, you are fine. If they shrink, get hard, and turn red or brown, you may have too much light. A few leaves turning yellow is not a worry, but funky smelling water, is. White "bumps" are a minor worry, and clear "booger slime" is end game.
    Other than that, it's a cake walk.
     
  13. Weezard

    Weezard Registered+

    It's probably best to PH the water, but I'm a lazy pup. I take it straight from the tap.
    Which is about 8.2!
    Getting away with that, so far. Seems it's not critical until the roots pop.
    Well, I've got a new project. I'll do a side by side rooting with and without PH adjustment.
    We'll see if it makes a big difference.
     
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  14. EvilCartman

    EvilCartman Registered+

    That will be interesting. I've always heard it was better to go a little to the acidic side, like 6ish. ;)
    Like you, I just use the tap. Runs in the high 7 range. No issues. :awesome:
     
  15. Buds Buddy

    Buds Buddy Registered+

    Well, well, well.... I honestly thought the angle cut only mattered if you were trying to grow roots & clone. Since I was just determining sex I didn't worry about the angle. They do look like they're doing something at the nodes. Hope it works. If not it's going to get really crowded till I figure out what's what. If I knew what they were right now I would start flowering as my smallest plant is about 14" & my largest 30".
     

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