Discussion in 'Basic Growing' started by dodohead, Jun 17, 2008.

  1. dodohead

    dodohead Registered+

    ok, could you guys give me a basic rundown on molasses?
    -why it is used, what it does, or how it benefits the plant?
    -when to add it into the growing cycle and how often?
    -personal experiences/ recommendations
    -where I can get it (dont live near a hydro shop), can i just get it at a supermarket?

    Thanks guys, ive been reading about molasses now for a little, but never knew why you guys add it, and just wanted some insight, so if i decided to use it for this grow.
  2. keeko

    keeko Registered+

    it helps feed the beneficial microbes in the soil which help fatten up the buds and brings out the natural plant aroma. i have always used one tbsp per gallon of water in the flower cycle. supermarkets should have mollasses, try for the unsulphered mollasses.
  3. justanotherbozo

    justanotherbozo Registered

    heres some info that will answer your questions about molasses
    oh yeah, only use un-sulphered molasses and yes, you can get it at the grocery store (the bottle will either say un-sulphered or blackstrap, thats what you want, and about a tsp per gallon diring flowering if your growing in hydro, i think)

    anyway, i didn't write this but i hope it helps

    Why Use Sugary Supplements?

    Matt LeBannister

    People feed their plants sugars all the time without knowing it and not always understanding why. You give your sweetheart a bouquet of roses for Valentine’s Day and before they are put into the vase, sugar is added to the water to extend their bloom. Some “old school” gardeners will add molasses to their nutrient solution during the flowering period. Actually, just by adding fulvic acid, usually labeled “gold,” and humic acid, usually labeled “black,” to your nutrient mix you are giving your plants the building blocks for sugars.

    Most growers do not even know that there is a meter, called a Brix meter, that is used to measure the level of sugars in the leaves of plants. It is generally understood that the higher the level of sugars within a plant’s tissue, the healthier the plant is and the better the yield will be.

    Knowing this, the question should not be, “Why add a carbohydrate supplement to my nutrient solution?” but simply, “Why haven’t I added one already?”

    To understand why you should give your plants one of the sugary supplements on the market, you should become a little more familiar with the way plants produce and use sugars.

    Almost all plants use sugars as their main source of fuel. They transport these sugars along with water and other elements throughout their systems, either for food or to create amino acids for biosynthesis to fuel cellular respiration. Maple trees are a great example of how plants use sugars. Their sugary sap is famous at breakfast tables worldwide, but that sap is really the food the maple tree has begun to store to survive the winter to come.

    Most plants are photoautotrophs, which means that they synthesize their own food directly from inorganic compounds using photons, the energy from light. They do this using a process called photosynthesis. Photosynthesis comes from the Greek word “photo,” meaning light, and “synthesis,” meaning to put together. The inorganic compounds are carbon dioxide (CO2) and water (H2O), and the energy source is sunlight. The end products include glucose, a simple sugar, and oxygen (O2). The actual equation looks like this:

    6CO2+ 12H2O+ photons—> C6H2O6+ 6O2+ 6H2O(gas) (liquid) (aqueous) (gas) (liquid)

    Then, through a process called carbon fixation, ATP (adenosine triphosphate),AND? a high-energy molecule CO2 (carbon dioxide) are used to create sugars. Some sugars produced, such as glucose, are simple sugars or monosaccharides. They are easily broken down by the plant and are generally used for energy. Other sugars produced, such as cellulose, are complex sugars or polysaccharides. Polysaccharides consist of a chain of two or more sugars and are usually used for lipid and amino acid biosynthesis. Polysaccharides are also used as a fuel in cellular respiration. Cellulose specifically is used as the building material for all green plants. It is the main component of all green plant cell walls.

    Through the examination of the process of photosynthesis, we learn just how important the sugars produced through this process are. The sugars and starches are vital to the plant. They are essential for cellular preparation, to maintain the plants metabolism and vigor. The sugars are even the building blocks that keep the very cells of the plant together. Now it is understood that plants have a great big “sweet tooth” and are specialists at making the sugars they need.

    So why then should we be feeding them more on top of all this? Simply put, flowering plants are burning these carbs trying to make large fruit or vegetables, or big beautiful blooms, faster than a marathon runner trying to win a race. Not to mention that the process of photosynthesis, which produces the sugars, itself takes a lot of energy. By adding one of the organic carbohydrate supplements to your nutrient solution the carbohydrates that have been allocated to the flowering process will be replenished more easily. This will save your plant the energy it would need to create those sugars itself, and your plant can focus more of its energy on the flowering process.

    Also, many beneficial bacteria and fungi (aka carbon-fixing bacterial fungi) will live on the sugars and will break down the sugars for the plant. This, again, allows the plant to use energy usually spent breaking down sugars for other processes. The more beneficial bacteria and fungi, the easier nutrients are absorbed by the roots. All this leads to improved flowering and overall health of the plants.

    When choosing the supplement for your plants remember the old saying, “You are what you eat.” The same goes for your plants. Look for something organic because organic sugars will improve flavor and smell better than anything that inorganic.

    There are also some sugars that are more important to your plants than others. Xylose and arabinose are two of those sugars. Both are sugars naturally produced by plants. They are also monosaccharides, which means they are simple sugars and, therefore, used more easily by the plant.

    Glucose should be the main ingredient of the product because it is the main product of photosynthesis. Glucose is a monosaccharide that is used for energy and for starting cellular respiration in the plant. The name “glucose” comes from the Greek word “glykys,” which means sweet, with the suffix “ose,” which denotes that it is a carbohydrate. Glucose is critical in the production of proteins and in lipid metabolism. Glucose is also used as a precursor for the synthesis of several important substances, such as starch and cellulose. Starch is a way in which plants store energy and cellulose makes up most of the structural parts of plants.

    Fructose is also a monosaccharide and is a main component of most tree fruit, berries, and melons. It is the sweetest naturally occurring sugar and is twice as sweet as the disaccharide sucrose, which consists of glucose and fructose bonded together.

    The disaccharide maltose is also an important sugar because enzymes break it down into two glucose molecules.

    All of the above sugars are produced naturally by plants. By adding a supplement containing these simple and complex sugars to a well-balanced nutrient, a plant will increase the levels of sugars in the leaves and throughout the plant. This will let the plant use its energy more efficiently, allowing more energy to be focused on producing large fruit and bigger blooms. These sugars will also improve the taste of the end product while giving fuel to beneficial bacteria and fungi.

    Using sugar supplements with carbon-based fulvic acid and humic acid bring great benefits to your plants with no downside. Knowing this and how the plants produce and use these sugars makes using them simply “carbo-logic.”
  4. Dutch Pimp

    Dutch Pimp Up in Smoke

    Damn! ...bozo...I can't read all that shit...:rastabanna:

    ps...thanks...for speaking up for me...:thumbsup:...I got there too late.
  5. NaughtyDreadz

    NaughtyDreadz Registered+

    based on that I should also be giving them molasses in veg too???
  6. jessejames12345

    jessejames12345 Registered+

    Make sure all your other feeding is proper before adding molasses though, it can nute-lock you out faster that anything. I know from experience.:wtf:
  7. dodohead

    dodohead Registered+

    Jeez, thanks guys, and a special thanks to bozo:jointsmile:
    So when exactally do I start adding molasses? Should I keep increasing the molasses intake gradually? Should I mix it in with other ferts, or add it in a seperate mix? How long before harvest do I want to stop adding molasses? My gal was started in mid march (the 12th) and located in north central PA btw. Replies appreciated.
  8. dodohead

    dodohead Registered+

    anybody have any personal experience comparisons between not using and using molasses?
  9. Dutch Pimp

    Dutch Pimp Up in Smoke

    Yes...I have...:thumbsup:...What you grow is better than what you buy....:rastabanna:

    sorry...what was the question again?
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2008
  10. justanotherbozo

    justanotherbozo Registered

    you're welcome Dutch, he was off base

    to dodohead, i know that that document is kinda involved but it is important you sorta understand it.

    you use molasses during flowering because, as the plant grows, it produces sugars as part of its natural life cycle, as it begins flowering, it needs these sugars more and more.

    by introducing sugars you free the plant up from having to produce those sugars itself. your reward will be fatter, sweeter tasting buds.

    anyway, i've not grown any side by side tests to see which would be better, i've just accepted conventional wisdom

    good luck
    • Like Like x 1
  11. justanotherbozo

    justanotherbozo Registered

    glad i could help dude, all i ask is that you help the next guy, when you are able

    God willing, we can get the whole world stoned, lol
  12. dodohead

    dodohead Registered+

    yeah i hope someone like me with the same questions will find this thread, and have their questions answered, like i have. as for the whole world getting stoned, one step closer:jointsmile:
  13. dodohead

    dodohead Registered+

    So how do I start adding molasses?

    What should I start with?
    How often (every other water, etc)?
    Should I keep increasing the molasses intake gradually?
    Should I mix it in with other ferts, or add it in a seperate mix? How long before harvest do I want to stop adding molasses?

    My (outdoor, soil) gal was started in mid march (the 12th) and located in north central PA btw. Replies appreciated.
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2008
    • Like Like x 1
  14. Dutch Pimp

    Dutch Pimp Up in Smoke

    This is the way, I did it:

    1. Water and Nutes

    2. Water

    3. Water and Molasses (1 TSP per gallon)

    4. Repeat steps 1-3

    Each step is when the plant is bone dry, according to my moisture meter. This may not be the best way, but it's my way....:glugglug:
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2008
    • Like Like x 1
  15. LolaGal

    LolaGal Registered+

    Black strap molasses is the best type to use. It is the end product of molasses production. Just don't eat it!!!!!YUCK.....
  16. Raftastic

    Raftastic Registered+

    Ok this thread helped,but no-one answered the question 'When do you start adding molasses ?'
  17. keeko

    keeko Registered+

    i start 2 weeks into flowering
  18. Raftastic

    Raftastic Registered+

    Thankyou Keeko.
  19. Rusty Trichome

    Rusty Trichome Registered+

    I usually start them on the molasses as soon as I flip them to 12/12.
    I got a little 8oz bottle of Grandma's, and had been adding it weekly @ 2 tsp per gallon of ph'd water for the last six months or so. Not because it works, as I haven't noticed any significant difference, but because I still have some.
    The carbo-load theory sounds good, but perhaps my nutes (Fox Farms) or micro's (Superthrive for veg, Fox Farms for flowering) already provide the carbs...IDK.
    If I add more than 2 tsp per gallon per week, nute lockout comes fast and hard. A good flush rectifies that situation, tho.

    Have eased-back to 1 teaspoon per week, in case I was overdoing it a bit.
    Time will tell, but I have seriously considered not replenishing my supply of the stuff.

    Messy and sticky I can live with...Messy, sticky and ineffective I can't.

    Has anyone out there had better results?

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