Recent problem with my girl.

Discussion in 'Plant Problems' started by Orneryman, Jan 9, 2018.

  1. Orneryman

    Orneryman Registered+

    These dry patches starting showing on some of my large fan leaves a couple days ago. It started on just one leaf towards the bottom of the plant and its spread to now 4 of the large fan leaves towards the top of the plant. It's not any pests or bugs. It's greenish-brown but its dried out and crumbles to the touch. I've done some research and think it could be calcium deficiency. A second or third opinion would be greatly appreciated. I've included a troubleshooting copy paste and a couple pictures

    E-indoor or outdoor-Indoor
    E-soil, soilless, coco, aero, or hydroponic-Soil
    E-specific medium- FFOF mixed with perlite
    CSL-Soil type/brand-FFOF mixed with perlite
    HCL-Hydro/aero/soilless system type
    SCL-Anything you have added to the soil-I was using Fox Farm Grow Big until I realized the perlite I'm using has nutes already added, so I stopped adding nutrients about 2 weeks ago after realizing it was burning the tips of new growth.
    SCLR-Soil or slab runoff pH- Haven't checked, too soon to water again until a couple days.
    E-Water source-Bathroom tap
    E-Source water pH -It comes out of the faucet at ~8 ph and I use PH down to get it anywhere between 6.0-6.5
    HRT-Source water EC (if hydro)
    E-Age of plant- ~5-6 weeks haven't really been keeping track
    E-Type of fertilizer- Was using Fox Farm Grow Big until about 2 weeks ago.
    E-Rate of application (if hydro, this is your PPM number, preferably after each component is added)-I was using about 1/3 the recommended dosage on the bottle. I have a ppm meter but didn't check it unfortunately.
    E-Lighting source and distance from plant-2 300w LED about 20 inches from top of plant.
    E-Air temperature (both day and night if you are running a dark period)- In the tent it fluctuates anywhere from 20C to 27C
    HD-Reservoir temperature
    E-Air % Relative humidity-With a humidifier blowing near the intake fan it stays ~55% RH
    E-Lighting schedule- 24 Hours on
    E-Type of ventilation your room has-The tent is 2'x2'x4'. I'm using two 4" ventilation fans, one near the bottom and one at the top.
    TR-Did you pre-soak your media in pH corrected solution?
     
  2. emilya

    emilya Future Dispensary Owner

    magnesium / calcium deficiency is what it looks like... get some calmag+ and use it up to the 5th week of flower. Using after that will affect the taste of the buds. Keep doing everything else you are now doing... looks good.
     
  3. Orneryman

    Orneryman Registered+

    Yeah that's kinda what I was leaning towards myself. I actually have a small bottle of cal-mag. I'll introduce that to my next feeding and see if it helps.
     
  4. emilya

    emilya Future Dispensary Owner

    give a little bit with each watering... it will help. My point above and here is that you are doing ok... you just have this one very common deficiency. Dont change anything else trying to "fix" it... all is well. This is terribly common in the indoor growing world. I am impressed that you know not to water too often too. What is the variety? I am assuming you have an auto with the 24/0 lighting.
     
  5. emilya

    emilya Future Dispensary Owner

    in-between waterings you can apply calmag in a foliar spray... it should help jump start the recovery.
     
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  6. Orneryman

    Orneryman Registered+

    Okay, I'll try that now.
     
  7. Orneryman

    Orneryman Registered+

    Just an update on the plants condition. The Cal-mag totally fixed the calcium/magnesium problem. No more "burnt" leaves. But now a new one arose. I've come to the conclusion that its OD'd on nitrogen. I didn't even think of the 2-0-0 formula of Cal-mag adding too much nitrogen with the already added nutes in the perlite. The new growth is small and is "canoeing" outward (like an upside-down canoe) Otherwise the plant is fairly healthy and growing. A bunch of new nodes are popping up since I LST'd some of the big branches down. Would a good flush solve this problem or should I just let it work itself out? I'll add some pics.

     
  8. Orneryman

    Orneryman Registered+

    Sorry I didn't see this earlier. I've done quite a bit of research on various websites, including this one. As for the variety, I have no clue. Just a random seed out of street bud. I use 24 hour lighting during veg as opposed to 18/6 because I've read that it gives it the most growth the fastest (could be wrong, just something I've read and had results with.)
     
  9. emilya

    emilya Future Dispensary Owner

    its one of those things that still needs to be proven, but I am in the camp that thinks the plants need a little downtime to work on the roots and moving stuff around the plant... things that cant be done as efficiently while the plant is in full daylight transpiration mode. And that by the way is what I think that slight canoeing is .... your plant is just working overtime to increase the pulling power of the roots. I don't see a sign of too much of anything... I see the plant expanding the surface area as much as possible on the leaves to as to provide maximum evaporation.
    Watch the very tips of the leaves in the upper growth to see if you have given too much nitrogen (or other macronutrients later), the leaf tips will turn brown if this is the case. What I think is maybe hurting the plant's vigor (the ability to raise each leaf up to the sun) is the container. I suspect that it is just about time to up-pot and you are seeing the beginning effects of becoming rootbound. I would lift the plant out of the container to look at the roots... if you see wrapping, it is time for a larger container.
     
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  10. Orneryman

    Orneryman Registered+

    I appreciate your input on the situation. For my next plant I'll try the 18/6 method. As for now this one is flowering and on 12/12 for about a week now. The problem with up-potting is my grow space is only 2'x2'x4' tent and with the light hanging its even smaller vertically, so I gotta keep it short. I'll try to pop her out of the pot for a minute and see if the roots are twisting and what not but I dont think that's the problem. Too much nitrogen doesn't burn the plant like other macro nutrients. Instead it causes it to get much darker green, the leaves can become glossy or shiny, clawing like you see in the above pictures, and in some cases nutrient lock. So if I turn this plant over and find out its not rootbound, how can I fix nitrogen toxicity? Flush it and not give any nitrogen? Will that shock the plant at all and possibly cause a hermie?
     
  11. emilya

    emilya Future Dispensary Owner

    You have a bit more studying to do my friend... too much nitrogen in veg can definitely burn the plant, and you are not clawing and you do not have toxicity. Anyway, that is all moot at this point since you are in flower, and nitrogen has become a much less needed nutrient. Now your concern is three fold, magnesium, potassium and phosphorus. I hope in all of your studies you have realized that it is time to change nutrients.
    Also, a flush causing shock? Where did you get that notion? By all means, flush out your vegging nutrients to make room for the flowering nutes. Flush again around the 5 week mark to get rid of any salts that have accumulated.
    And lastly, I understand about the small space and the small container being your maximum. Moving to flower has now locked you in at this size anyway and now we will see how much water you can get up into the plant to build buds as the watering needs have now changed. Rootbound or not, this is what you have going into flower and you will need to feed her accordingly... she will adjust to the small shoes.
     

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