Simple nOOb instructions for growin' da dankness

Discussion in 'Basic Growing' started by stinkyattic, Aug 3, 2007.

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  1. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    Okay that's a good question. I've answered it elsewhere, but it should be included in this thread. IT depends partially on personal preference and grow style, but my reasons are:
    -Very easy to stabilize temps when heat from your lights is not a variable over time
    -I can visit them at any time, day or night, without fear of stress
    -No timers to buy or have fail on ya
    -Going from 24/0 to 12/12 is a big heads up to the plant FLOWER NOW! as it is the first time it has ever seen darnkess. That's why I go directly, with no intermediate step.
    Also, a slick trick for the outdoor crowd is to keep plants on 24/0 until August 1 and then put them outside. They will begin to flower immediately seeing darkness for the first time, and finish before frost.
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  2. Raftastic

    Raftastic Registered+

    Thanks but i have 1 more.

    Does 24/0 effect the growth & if so how (what should i expect) ?

    I weill take advantage of the sunlight during the daytime and revert to the lights after T
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2008
  3. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    I haven't noticed a difference personally. Many growers will tell you that they give some darkness to enhance root growth. As a variable, there are more important ones, though, so you should use whichever is convenient for you.
  4. Raftastic

    Raftastic Registered+

    I only ask because i was told that 24/0 would lead to the stems being less bulky and stretching & the whole reason for me using 24/0 was to try and grow shorter plants with more bulk.

    Was i told wrong & also is my thinking bollocks (wrong) if my take on it is wrong then i'll revert back to 18/6 so long as it wont harm them (they're only week old seedlings)
  5. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    That may be true; I don't know actually. With the seedlings you have going already, I would at least keep them under whatever light schedule you are already on until they become sexually mature, since changes are a source of potential stress.
    If you plan to continue working with the same strain, it might be worth doing a side-by-side comparison with a few identical clones off the same mom, half on 24-0 and half on 18-6, to see how each group reacts, and take the result that you believe to be better and run like that in the future.
  6. Diplomat

    Diplomat Registered+

    quick question if I may, so please if anyone knows the answer be my guest...

    After placing germinated seeds in small containers to sprout, do you immediately have light beaming on the soil surface? Or are you supposed to wait until they sprout and rather put them in a dark - warm place until they pop, then turn the lights on? I have heard both ways, which one correct? :)

    Also is suran wrap on top a good idea in the pre-sprouting phase?

  7. Raftastic

    Raftastic Registered+

    Edit: Totaly read your post wrong,you put them straight under the lights mate,if you have small pots you should take advantage of the Sun and stick them on your window ledge.
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2008
  8. Diplomat

    Diplomat Registered+

    Thanks for the reply, I now have them under sunlight so i'm hoping that should do the trick. Seems I have been struggling just to get the damn things to sprout, this is now my second batch after a first failed attempt. I'm also beginning to think im planting them to deep(1 inch)... just another thought. :jointsmile:

    How about that suran wrap? Good to cover the pots with or no?

    Also: Would MG Potting Soil be too strong for a young seedling? That's what i'm using ( couldn't find starter soul )

    Thanks for the input!
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2008
  9. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    Seeds do not need any light until they break the soil surface.
    Direct sun will dry out the soil faster, and if you don't keep on top of it, can potentially dry out the vulnerable sprout.
    Saran wrap is not a good idea. You need air flow over the soil surface, or you will get fungus.
  10. Mr.GoodMorning02

    Mr.GoodMorning02 Registered+

    I had a nice seedling that i put into a shady area but after the heat wave came through even with wet soil and watering after the 94 degree day, the lil guy burnt up without a fight. learned my lesson :thumbsup:
  11. Raftastic

    Raftastic Registered+

    Yeah well 94d's in England this time of year just aint gonna happen :) i never put my seedling outside i just stick them on the window ledge.

    That's too deep mate,go back the the start of the thread and look for Stinkys post on seedlings,everything you need to know to get started is in this thread & Stinky is always forthcoming answering any queries you have...

    1/8th of and inch is as deep as they need.
  12. hudson88

    hudson88 Registered+

    Hey stinky hope all is good,

    I've got a question, I'm using bio bizz grow and bloom. i upped the nutes throughout flowering to a max of 3ml grow and 8ml bloom per litre at around 5 weeks. I'm just entering the 8th week of flowering and i'm feeding 1ml grow and 5ml bloom. I was intending to drop to around 1ml grow and 3ml bloom then do a flush for a couple of days. Does the backing off of my nutes sound ok or should i be lowering the bloom more or eliminating grow sooner etc? Have you got any tips or advice for feeding?

  13. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    Hey Hudson,
    I think in a situation like you are in, even if you decide to run some 'grow' into flower (using a 3-part nute for example), a week before you flush, you should stop using it altogether anyway. I would not use even a low level of 'grow' nute within 2 weeks of harvest, but you can keep giving 'bloom' at full strength right until the flush starts. You should be able to see the leaves getting paler and slightly yellower after a few days of heavy flushing. That is desirable.
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  14. hudson88

    hudson88 Registered+

    Cool, i was thinking along those lines but would of probably kept a low dose of grow till the flush, i'll stop it right away tho, pretty sure i'm no more than 2 weeks from harvest.

    I've been reading too many grow logs and getting some conflicting advice on the subject so needed some clarification from the master!

    Thanks stinky, much appreciated ;)
  15. Blaze87

    Blaze87 Registered

    so i read your guide and i find it VERY useful. one thing i have a concern about though is i planted a stress seed and a kush seed. the stress plant is about 3 inches tall in a pot 7 inches tall and 7 1/2 inches wide. i know now that because of this the plant is concentrating on growing its roots instead of its leaves. my question is, can i transplant it to a smaller plant or just let it grow there? the stem is pretty thin but the leaves look healthy now that its been growing for 3 weeks. (just fyi) my kush plant is about an inch and a half tall after about a week in a pot 6 inches tall and 7 1/2 wide
  16. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    Don't try to put a plant in a smaller pot unless it is n emergency. If it looks healthy, leave it be. When you say 'stress seed' are you meaning a bag seed that came from a hermi pollination in a stressed grow environment?
  17. Kiviaa

    Kiviaa Registered

    Do smaller plants bud faster slower or the same as taller plants

    hey stinky were from the same state hell yea i live near the rhode island border near 495. what area u come from?
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2008
  18. Blaze87

    Blaze87 Registered

    lol actually im not a 100% sure what stress really is, all i know is that on the streets its cheaper and weaker than kush or chronic. usually the buds are browner and more dense. we call it "poor smoker's weed". i planted it just for the hell of it cause im a first time grower and i just wanted to practice with it. then i got that kush seed (grandaddy i think) about a week later. so im hoping that at least ONE of them is a female. your guess at what a stress seed is sounds realistic though.
  19. Raftastic

    Raftastic Registered+

    At what stage is it ok to add molasses ?
  20. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    Kiviia- Smaller plants bud exactly the same speed as taller ones, assuming that they are all sexually mature. After that point, the timing is all the same. If you flower early, before maturity, smaller plants will take longer to START budding, but will then finihs the same speed.
    I'm somewhere along the CT river valley ;) It's nice out here.

    Raftastic- You can start adding molasses at any time after you start feeding real fertilizer, but as with anything, start WEAK and work up gradually. You don't need a ton of sugar to make a ton of difference. Just a tablespoon or so in a full gallon of water is plenty! Remember, in veg, it is not quite so aggressively used, and the primary way you want to give carbon is giving a LOT of CO2 by allowing constant air flow or even injecting it from a tank. In flower, that sugar added to the fertilizer is going to help bulk up your buds and help them produce all sorts of sticky goodness.
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