The importance of a continuous canopy: It's all about EFFICIENCY, baby!

Discussion in 'Basic Growing' started by stinkyattic, Mar 14, 2008.

  1. adrfern

    adrfern Registered

    haha, thanx. I used to always wet them alil giving kind of a mold to it so it doesnt break apart easily incase the roots haven´t really started makiing that mold themselves (especially in the earlier transplants). but i like ur reasoning

    Well ya, spin-out is classified as a chemical pruner but i really wouldnt say it prunes the roots. You paint the inside of the pots with this copper hydroxide mix; the roots grow and just before touching the sides of the pot they turn around, never entering in contact with the chemical. these plants are said to have more roots and more evenly distributed throughout the center of the pot, making them easier to mantain and allowing them to last longer in there pots before needing a transplant. I just think about the possible protection that the roots have when they are not in contact with the bottom or sides of the pot.
     
  2. Mr.GoodMorning02

    Mr.GoodMorning02 Registered+

    so stinky, should the root ball be minimized in some way when transplanting, or should the older soil go directly into the new pot with the new soil surrounding it? i'm guessing the roots are better off continuing to get longer when they stretch to the new bottom.
    but i seem to be wondering if it would be beneficial to eliminate some of the old soil so more of the roots touch new soil and nutes.
     
  3. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    If you wait until the correct time to transplant, fresh roots will be exposed simply by removing the pot. I never try to remove soil, as that can damage the roots more than just the little scuffing-up of the corners of the root ball that many growers like to do during transplant.
    The major exception to this is keeping a bonsai mother plant over a long period of time, but that's a topic for another thread.
     
  4. justanotherbozo

    justanotherbozo Registered

    Stinky, is there a thread on that already, and does it include how to do it hydroponically? if so, please point me in that direction.

    i'm trying to set up a SOG so any info on the care and maintainence of mommas is appreciated.

    (oh yeah, thanks for the rep the other day)
     
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  5. Mr.GoodMorning02

    Mr.GoodMorning02 Registered+

    thanks stinky...yea i was thinking of running the ball under water to remove the soil but they may only further the possibility of damaging the roots during the transplant.

    you're the best :thumbsup:
     
  6. BigBongHits

    BigBongHits Registered+

    i believe the pictures you posted stinky are pictures of heaven
     
  7. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    It was good while it lasted, and it WAS heaven... this is the view out the greatroom window... and drive in on a snowy twilight... ahhh *tear
     

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    Last edited: Sep 25, 2008
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  8. jkalb42

    jkalb42 Registered+

    Looks like its been a while since anyones posted here, but i just wanted to say wherever those pictures were taken reminds me of Montana. I moved to Texas this year. :(
     
  9. DasPachy

    DasPachy Registered+

    Stinky - from seed in Fafard's potting mix, started with dixie cups. Starting as germinated seed, the plants spent 16 days in the dixie cup before being transplanted to 5.5" square pots where they have spent the last 2 weeks. About how long before I should consider repotting in 3 gal. buckets?
     
  10. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    jkalb- That's Vermont at its wintry finest. Looks just like that today, actually! We got snow last night. Gorgeous.

    Das- Kinda depends on your plans for the plants, and how fast they grow.
    IF you plan to flower them in 3 gal pots, wait until they are as big as you want to put them into 12/12 at, then stick em in 3's and GO!
    If you are keeping them as moms, or the 3 gal pot is not the last pot and you will be flowering in 5 or 10g, let them get good and rootbound in the quart pots, and transplant them before they show stress. You will be able to tell because they suddenly seem to use up all their water SO much faster and need more frequent waterings.
    If you are keeping them as moms, you can even go to an intermediate pot like a gallon size before going up to the 3.
     
  11. peterthegreek7

    peterthegreek7 Registered

    Stinky id like to say that your tread is very informative. I thought it was funny when i reading the first two lines that you wrote on your first post and I thought of myself. :)
     
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  12. bigsby

    bigsby Banned

    I know this thread is long cold but I have something to throw on the fire. First though, mad props to you, Stinky, for this an all the other wonderful stickies. Awesome. Let me know when your book is coming out. I'll bike over for a signed copy!

    My question is, have you ever seen Rootmaker pots? They are tiered (square at the smaller sizes which I've read elsewhere is beneficial) and include openings for air. They are supposed to promote horizontal root growth. A little pricey but for my op I can pop for a few. I'm curious. Seems like they might also find application in a flood table? Thoughts appreciated.
     
  13. tlranger

    tlranger Registered+

    Great post, pretty much sums up why I left hydro for dirt. Trying to fill every canopy hole with a leaf and then to avoid crowding for air circulation, can become quite the puzzle. Pots give me that freedom of movement of individual plants.
    How thick would you estimate your production layer? Does it vary with type of light?
     
  14. Shovelhandle

    Shovelhandle Registered+

    400 watt fixtures I try for less than 2 feet of bud and nothing under that.
     
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  15. The Widow White

    The Widow White Registered+

    It's definitely worth the effort. The rate of growth when repotting is done at the right time, is much faster. I repotted some seedlings that are about 9 weeks at this point and you couldn't tell they had been touched the next morning. All healthy and happy.... It's more work, but the plant does much better overall.
     
  16. DirtyBlueGene

    DirtyBlueGene Registered+

    Run along now, scam scum.
     
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  17. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    This reply is years overdue but in response to tlranger's post, in hydro the easy answer is to put your medium in pots. I had a lot of good grows using hydroton or equivalent clay pebbles in pots that can be moved from tray to tray, or rearranged within the same tray to optimize exposure to the light. I used the same basic guidelines for repotting these plants; yes it is a little tricky when you are trying to repot a large plant in a large pot full of hydroton, but the roots do form a pretty solid mass in the clay pebbles that CAN be successfully transplanted to a larger pot. The one big thing you want to be aware of is adjustment of your flood level. If you have plants in 4" deep pots and flood to about 3-1/2", and then you transplant those same plants into 8" deep pots without changing the flood level, the roots will be mostly above the water line and your plants will dry out. You can add drip stakes to ease the transition if you don't do all your plants at once and still have some shorties in the group, but you will ultimately have to adjusts your flood level as well.
     
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  18. painretreat

    painretreat Registered+

    What a special treat to see you back. WELCOME BACK STINKYATTIC!


    pr
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2016
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