Thrips? Mites?

Discussion in 'Plant Problems' started by KickYoAss, Aug 2, 2007.

  1. KickYoAss

    KickYoAss Registered+

    I tried google, but I'm just no good with a matchup. Posted is the best picture I can get of one of the buggers. Got maybe 50-100 in the whole crop, so, I'm trying to get rid of them while it's easy. I know I've seen these same bugs outside on my mulberry tree. To the naked eye, they look like a tan little worm crawling around. I've got a few flying critters upstairs, so maybe these are baby white flies?? I know I saw one of the bastards jump

    Attached Files:

  2. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    That's a thrip.
    Excellent picture. Would you mind posting in 'Plant problems' a thread that says "Thrip Picture" expecially if you can get a pic of the DAMAGE too. There's a lot of confusion over pest ID.
    You can kill those little SHITS with pyrethrin.
  3. KickYoAss

    KickYoAss Registered+

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 2, 2007
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  4. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    GREAT pics, yup, neem oil really slows those suckers down. Go easy on it so you don't suffocate the plants. Raise the lights.
    But get some pyrethrin when you have a chance, and treat every 3-4 days until they have been gone for at least a week.
    Further applications of a more dilute solution of neem will help prevent reinfestation.
  5. Divestoned

    Divestoned Registered+

    fantastic pics man good job

  6. KickYoAss

    KickYoAss Registered+

    MY GOD THIS HAS BEEN HELL! Spent $15 on some local neem oil, then $15 more on need with pyrethrum. I also emptied my co2 tank, ordered garlic barrier $10, and blue sticky traps $30. The blue traps only seem to trap fewer than the yellow traps...bleh. The garlic crap is ALL over, and it smells like someone's cooking garlic allll day. The claim is, you only smell it directly after spraying it. I smell that shit sooo bad! I broke down and spent the last amount of money I should have to($80), and ordered Botanigard. This is a quart of concentrated fungus, that does EVIL things, to EVIL sunsabitchin' insects. It turns them into, what looks like, popcorn. The spores of the fungus permeate their skin, and grow from the inside, out, and they seem to, burst. I'm going to be very happy when this stuff arrives!!!
  7. rhizome

    rhizome Registered+

    Helpful hint- hit'em w/ some Safer's to dry out the chitin, and then the Botanigard a few hours later. Fungus can only colonize thru breaks in exoskeleton- which will happen eventually anyway ( Lord knows I can't go a day w/o cutting myself) but you can hurry the process along.

    Thrips have a subterreanean instar - if you can prevent the larvae from dropping down out of leaf tissue into the media, they will not survive to reproduce. A thin layer of DE or a physical barrier ( like a paper plate, slit to accomodate stem) will suffice.

    If you do eliminate your thrips, watch out for spider mite blooms- I can't do a species ID from these pics, but some sp. of thrip will actually act as a mite predator. Ifl you're actually finding adults, without the characteristic damage of feeding larvae, you may not actually have what could be considered a " pest" population. ID of a thrip problem is almost always done by observation of feeding damage well before adults are spotted with the naked eye.

    If you think you have 50-100, you have 500-1000. or 5000-10000.
  8. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    This mite bloom- interesting. I only saw my first mites AFTER eliminating thrips. That is something I had never heard of before.
    Chitin= the material that an insect's body is made of.
  9. rhizome

    rhizome Registered+

    Yo Slick-

    ( I always wanted to say that)

    What's your media, grow style, etc?

    Instar is non-feeding pupal stage in development.

    Chitin is the actual substance that exoskeleton is composed of.
  10. rhizome

    rhizome Registered+

    Be careful what you wish for.
  11. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    Slick's in coco, auto drip, homebox 4x8 (hydrohut deLuxe), AK47, 3x600digi...
    Lol it's sad I can rattle off what other members are running. :D
    Longtime thrip sufferer and sashimi aficionado.
  12. rhizome

    rhizome Registered+

    Well, obviously pyre-bomb the box between cycles. I've had good results w/ abamectin drenches, but you want to flush pretty hard, pretty quickly. No idea how abamectin will interact w/ coco, but I don't see any obv. issues, long as you rinse it out 15 minutes later. Drench by hand, not thru irrigation system- looking for momentary oversaturation. Divert run-off from drench and rinses away from res, if he recircs. Aerate run-off for 24 hours to oxidize before disposal. Pyrethrin drench should work as well, but I've seen weird phytotoxicity .

    Bag up and throw away used media after harvest, unless you want to heat-sterilize till bone dry.

    Mom's are probabley affected too- regular spray program alternating neem/safer/pyrethrin every 3-5 days for like a month ( beware of waxy build-up) or abamectin/ safer tank mix weekly for 4 weeks, physical barriers over media to prevent larval burrowing. Remove tissue if any sign of larval feeding.

    The bitch is that only the adult can be contact sprayed- to get the leaf and flower eating larva, you have to use a translaminar, and whatever your poison of choice for the subterraenean stages may be, you have to deliver it in in-vitro.

    Slick- ever tried beneficial nematodes delivered thru your irrigation system? Can be quite effective, and they're the easiest bio-control to manage.
  13. ohkelly

    ohkelly Banned

    Hmm, Orthene (acephate) is one of the most widely used pesticides for tobacco. That would take care of the larval stages. Just sprinkle a little (maybe 1/2 tsp per plant or less) on the soil. Water it in and it'll go in through the roots. You can buy it wherever you find ant poison, which is what it's most commonly sold as in Megalomart-type stores. I don't know if it has any phytotoxicity in weed -- I've only ever seen it damage a fern. There may be an interval required between application and harvest. Hmm, yes there is -- three to five days pre-harvest in tobacco. You could give it a week or more if you're the cautious sort. And I guess that if you water it into the soil, instead of using a foliar spray, it could perist even longer, which could be not good. Oh, and don't touch it. It is toxic to you until it breaks down. And you might want to not touch the plants for a while. Sounds like risky stuff, no?

    Hmm, again. "Orthene (acephate) Do not apply this product through any type of irrigation system." Wonder why? Bad juju? Corrosive?

    Idunno. Perhaps more experienced voices will warn you that acephate is pure death to you, your irrigation setup and your pretty green weed babies. Probably you should disregard everything I've written unless the head grow heads here tell you differently.
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2007
  14. Weedhound

    Weedhound Registered+

    Growheads....I like that. I also like the way rhizome says something.....then you have Stinky to say it in English. :D
  15. KickYoAss

    KickYoAss Registered+

    Do ya think Lowe's would have Safer's insecticidal soap? I've ordered so much crap on the internet, and was hoping I could just go grab this stuff locally. I'm really depressed that I was hit with thrips so bad. I was somewhat accurate when I said 50 - 100, but now it's much worse. There were just a lot of unhatched SOBs. Today, I killed all stages of the thrip on one set of leaves. Just ONE leaf homed at least 8 of them bastards. So, I've got 500 leaves that size.....ugh. I can't wait for that fungus to arrive. I have Vortex, and Spacequeen seeds for gosh sakes! I'm so excited to plant them, but I don't want them to have to live with any stress.
    Because I want them bad so gone, I sprayed a few oz of that garlic barrier crap. I smell like garlic, the room smells HEAVILY of garlic, almost nauseating. I drenched the leaves tonight, hoping I make a difference.
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2007
  16. fatsackville

    fatsackville Registered+

    you should treat part of the mulberry tree too, otherwise they might just move over to it and come back to your plants later

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