Ventilation Problems

Discussion in 'Basic Growing' started by razzapiggy, May 19, 2007.

  1. razzapiggy

    razzapiggy Registered+

    So I am a few cycles through, having a problem for the first time here. I live in Nothern California and have not have temp problems since I started growing. That was until four days ago. I had the babies comfortable under 1000 watt lamp, but I transplanted and had to turn on the second 1000 watt lamp and my temps in the canopy are hitting as high as 92 degrees. This is a huge suprise to me because the house is very chilly usually, heck I had to run a heater over the winter to keep my temps UP with two 1000 watt lamps running. Anyhow, I have an open circuit that is ventilating the 2 1000 watt lamps into the attic via a 6 inch Vortex. Air is being pulled in under the door as well as a hole int he floor that brings cool air from the heating vent (this air is much cooler becase it runs underground) Today my friend gave me a DeFlecto TK6 which is a fan, not extremely strong, but should help without question. When I hooked it up to the hole in the floor it brought my temps down 3 degress by pushing cool air into the room (the Vortex then sucked air out of the room for ventilation)

    My question is this... do I need to add another 6 inch hole and have a hole for my air that is cooling my hoods, as well as another hole for the pushing air out of the room itself?

    I am also about to add another 600 watt lamp... so I am thinking my temps will rise again sometime soon. What I am th inking is... could I perhaps close the circuit with the two 1000 watt lamps on it, and leave the 600 watt line open to take air of the room? I would then use the weaker fan to draw air out of the room, and put it into a little Y clasp near the vortex and push all the air (hood cooling\air cooling) out through one fan.

    Does anyone have any specs on the Deflecto TK6...I am curious if it has the strength to air out an entire 10\5 room... only doing 2600 watts so it may be able to handle it. Or would I benefit more from using the stronger fan to ventilate the room and the lesser of fans to cool the hoods?

    My temps arent extremely high, but summer is yet to come around. What is the cut off point for growing mary J? Anything over 90 in the canopy area is no good right
     
  2. razzapiggy

    razzapiggy Registered+

    Just to claify... as of right now my hoods are not cooled because in order to do so I would need to hook it up to the venting hole in the ceiling and then would have nothing to pull air from.

    Of course unless I closed the circuit and then relied on air from under the door to ventilate the room. I am trying to avoid putting naother 6 inch hole in the ceiling..curious if you guys hvae any ideas.
     
  3. razzapiggy

    razzapiggy Registered+

    Here is the information on the other fan I was given.



    Item Number: TFK6

    Product Description:
    Tube Fan™ Fan with mounting bracket, diffuser (areas up to 1800 cubic feet)

    Color: Beige

    Features:

    * eliminates moisture problems quickly, quietly
    * for areas up to 225 square feet or 1800 cubic feet
    * powerful enough to vent two areas with just one fan
    * for remodeling or new home installation
    * maintenance free, one year warranty
    * easy to install
    * additional use: use in duct system to propel warm or cold air to room additions


    I am trying to not put another 6 inch hole in the ceiling but I am not 100% sure this can be avoided with properly ventilating the room. Would putting the weaker fan (the deflecto) on the same line as the vortex and and closing the main circuit closed, while leaving the circuit of the new 600 watt lamp open work?

    Then the Vortex would be cooling cool air from the heating vent to air cool the hoods, and the deflecto would be ventilating the room, and then pulling it into the same line as the vortex, which sends all of it up into the attic. Does this work?
     
  4. zino11

    zino11 Banned

    i dont know what type of lights you have but ventilate them for sure and your intake and outake are highly important if you got enogh cool air coming in the room itself you should have the same leavin the room for best is put your outake high intake low and have another fan to circulate the room the strongest fan i know of is called somethin like a squirrel cage fan
     
  5. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    Air-cool the hoods... ~$100-150 per hood, you'll make it up on your first harvest, 'econo cool' hood works fine... 6" active exhaust on the hoods themselves.

    You can do 2 in line. You CAN do an isolated circuit drawing air from somewhere else, and then exhausting it into yet ANOTHER location... but then you have to add yet another hole... I run my air cooled 1k open at the intake end and it serves also to exhaust used air... it exhausts to another room.

    Intakes... Yeah I hate to say but adding another 6 inch hole somewhere, preferably LOW (floor) with a duct booster fan is desirable, and add a booster fan to your existing intake. I have found that passive intakes simply don't cut it when you bring out the big guns. I draw my makeup air from a room with an a/c runnin 24h set to a LOW temperature.

    Catch the pwnage of the Braves last night? wOOt.
     
  6. razzapiggy

    razzapiggy Registered+

    Welp, decided there was no possible way to cool the temps down besides drilling another six inch hole in the ceiling. I am air cooling my hoods (three of them now that the 600 watter is in the line) through my Vortex fan into the attic. The air is being drawn from the heating vent which is typically pretty cool because it runs under the house.

    My temps in the canopy are now 87 degrees, which is a moderate decrease but I haven't even turned the 600 watt lamp on yet, a bit concerned about where the temps will go from there. Doesn't 87 degrees sound pretty damn warm to you guys even with air-cooling the hoods? I suppose the seals on my lamps may not be great, but I have heard of growers having temps at 78-81 degrees with 2000 watts going, I am just trying to stay under 90! =(
     
  7. razzapiggy

    razzapiggy Registered+

    Temps down to 85.3 and dropping now. Guess I spoke a little too soon. I also openeded a window in the hallway in which the cool air is coming from. I will report tomorrow what the temps look like, for now they seem to be doing a bit better.
     
  8. razzapiggy

    razzapiggy Registered+

    Update... temps right around 79 degrees in the canopy... LOOKING GOOD! Wonder how much the 600 watter will boost it up. I get to find out tonight! =)
     
  9. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    You're in the sweet spot now! AWESOME
     
  10. Bree1978

    Bree1978 Registered+

    Rappaziggy, I had some trouble with heat too.....I found taping the glass to the hood helped a lot. It could be an option if you need it after you fire up the 600w.

    GL, :jointsmile: Bree
     
  11. razzapiggy

    razzapiggy Registered+

    Ya know I was thinking about doing that actually with tape but I figured duct tape would melt for sure. Any type of tape that is more heat resisent? I heard of this shit called like Wonder Tape or something but I have no clue where to get it? I'll let ya guys know what happens when I figure up the 600 watter.
     
  12. Dizzy1

    Dizzy1 Registered+

    I have tape at home that's supposed to be high heat rated, can't remember the name.
    It has a material like aluminum foil on one side.
     
  13. Bree1978

    Bree1978 Registered+

    I've used both foil tape (HVAC) and reflective duct tape. Yes the duct melted to the hood, blech, blech blech. The foil was a little better, didn't melt perse but stuck super freaking good (which is what I wanted, I'm a little scared of my glass falling out on my head too)..... to really remove it, a person would have to use goo-gone and a blade. When I changed my bulbs, I tore off what I could and sliced the rest....then just slapped on somemore when I assembled again, lol.

    I'm planning on continuing on using the foil tape until someone tells me of something better...

    :jointsmile: Bree
     
  14. cyphercrash

    cyphercrash Registered

    Glass eats light. Not good for grows. Detracts from penetration and even 600 watters dont penetrate that well.
     
  15. PharmaCan

    PharmaCan Registered+

    Razz - Maybe I'm missing something, but why don't you air cool the 600w and hook it up in line with the 1,000's?
     
  16. razzapiggy

    razzapiggy Registered+

    The 600 is in the same line as the 1000s and is air cooled. Weird thing, my temps hit 87 right now around 600 PM. Why it's warmer in there when the weather is cooling down outside is absolutely beyond me? Off to do some work in the room and maybe get the 600 watter up and running.
     
  17. Bree1978

    Bree1978 Registered+

    IA, but it can't be helped. I couldn't suck the heat off my 800w without it, I tried! I still try to keep the bottom of my plants within 24 inches of the bulbs.

    :jointsmile: Bree

    How did your problems work out, Razzapiggy?
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2007
  18. razzapiggy

    razzapiggy Registered+

    Temps are staying down more so now, appreciate all the help cannabis.com

    I am going to try to get the lights as close to the plants as possible. The final babies are being transplanted tonight, flowering in a day or two since not a single plant has had transplant shock. Is that enough time for them to recover in their new home?
     
  19. stinkyattic

    stinkyattic CultiModerVatorAtor

    Yeah you should be okay, if you haven't given them ONE dose of superthrive yet, go ahead and do that now.
     
  20. razzapiggy

    razzapiggy Registered+

    Gave em all SuperThrive (b1 supplement) and all look very well with the exception of two. Appears I will be growing fifty plants, under 2600 watts of light. Only could fit 30 of my Sour Diesel under 2000 watts of light last time, and things got a bit crowded down low, but these indicas appear a bit easier to control. They are three days into flowering. I have some type of purple strain, been told its Da Purps... takes 56 days to flower. Will keep everyone posted and also put up some pictures in a few days.

    The spider mite problem seems to be temporarily more resolved, havent found any new holes in the leaves and cant ID any mites with the naked eye right now. Going to use the incesticide soap tomorrow, give em a few days... and then most likely bomb again just as a preventative measure.

    For now the 2000 watts can cover the canopy for the fifty plants, but then 600 watter will be turned on shortly. As of now, the balast I bought off a friend only has the plug that goes into a 240 outlet... so I am going to have to either re-wire the ballast or grab another chord. Will keep yall posted.

    P.S


    Hi Stinky. Dude, I am having a problem getting to my Rep, why dont you email me at RazzaPiggy@hotmail.com - and we will catch up soon. You are the woman FYI.
     

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